Maintaining/Beautifying Wrongkos (Ways, Tips, Materials, Pitfalls)

Bjorn · 20th March 2013, 03:41 PM

The topic of maintaining/beautifying a wrongko comes up here and there on this forum. There, however, appears to be no thread uniquely devoted to this topic. I'd like to suggest to use this thread for exactly that purpose, i.e. to share ways, materials, tips & tricks, and pitfalls of performing work on wrongkos.

In order to keep things informative, it could be helpful to explain the "why" behind certain actions. The "why" could, e.g., entail:

- giving a polished appearance
- protecting against dirt
- preserving the wood
- maintaining the current appearance
- repairing/hiding small defects (emphasis on small)

I hope this thread will provide members with some new knowledge which they'll be able to apply to their own keris collection.

Rick · 20th March 2013, 04:17 PM

Here is an old thread that I started about a repair I had to make after a disastrous accident with a brand new Surakarta ladrang .

http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showth...ghlight=repair

I like using orange shellac when appropriate .

Sajen · 20th March 2013, 06:41 PM

And here an old thread where have been done repair and maintaining by a small Peninsula keris from my collection: http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showth...4&page=2&pp=30

And here an old thread where I bring a tajong back to old glory: http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=11844

David · 20th March 2013, 07:09 PM

I am a big fan of Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax. I think they went out of business, but i believe a company called BWC is still making this product.

Bjorn · 21st March 2013, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David

I am a big fan of Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax. I think they went out of business, but i believe a company called BWC is still making this product.

David, do you use just wax or do you oil first and then apply the wax?

David · 21st March 2013, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yuuzan

David, do you use just wax or do you oil first and then apply the wax?

That would depend on the condition of the wood when i receive it.

Bjorn · 22nd March 2013, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David

That would depend on the condition of the wood when i receive it.

Well noted

I've found Bowling Alley Wax online so I'll give that one a try!

David · 22nd March 2013, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yuuzan

Well noted

I've found Bowling Alley Wax online so I'll give that one a try!

One caveat. The product i have come to like is the Butcher's product. I have been told the BWC which took over this product has kept the same formula. I don't know about other bowling alley waxes, but i think there is more than one out there.

Bjorn · 22nd March 2013, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David

One caveat. The product i have come to like is the Butcher's product. I have been told the BWC which took over this product has kept the same formula. I don't know about other bowling alley waxes, but i think there is more than one out there.

I found the BWC online, so that should not be an issue. I'm also considering Birchwood Casey Tru Oil; do you have any experience with this? It seems to require quite a few coatings. How many coats does the BWC Bowling Alley Wax require?

David · 22nd March 2013, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yuuzan

I found the BWC online, so that should not be an issue. I'm also considering Birchwood Casey Tru Oil; do you have any experience with this? It seems to require quite a few coatings. How many coats does the BWC Bowling Alley Wax require?

Yes, i have used Tru Oil. If i recall it is really like a finish more than something you would revitalize the wood with. I believe i put on a few coats, letting it dry in between and then took down the shine just a touch at the end with some 0000 steel wool.
With the BWC wax you cover it with a thin layer of wax, let it sit for a few minutes and then polish it with a soft cloth. It creates a really nice temporary finish that protects the wood nicely. But be prepared to pick out any globs of wax left in the crevices with a toothpick if you have a lot of carved details.

A. G. Maisey · 23rd March 2013, 04:33 AM

The original finish on most wrongkos is french polish, ie, shellac applied with a rubber, probably a standard piano finish of upwards of 16 applications is desireable.

A shortcut is apply the shellac or varnish with brush, kill it, and rub back with rotten stone.

Tru oil will give a good "fake finish". It requires absolutely no skill in use and gives a good hard durable finish, if you want imitate the finish of an older wrongko gently take off the gloss with 0000 steel wool.

If you do not want to re-finish, but just lift the finish a bit, silicon car polish mixed with old fashinoned turps, ie, not mineral turps, and used with a rubber will get rid of the dead varnish without damaging the surface.

Danish oil can be used in a similar way to Tru oil.

If you just want to lift the finish a bit, a hand rub with baby oil will make any wrongko look about 100 times better.

A good quality furniture wax such as Antiquax will protect the finish you have created.

A "rubber" is a small square of linen or cotton cloth packed tightly with cotton wool and the ends twisted to create a little ball , you dip this into whatever you're using to load it and then you apply the finish by working in a figure of eight pattern.

When doing a complete refinish the wood should be feathered before applying the finish. The traditional way to finish wood was with a damp cloth and a hot iron, these days we use a steam iron. This raises the grain and then the wood is polished back with steel wool, you continue until the grain does not raise any longer and your final polish before application of the finish is with 0000 steel wool.

Bjorn · 23rd March 2013, 06:49 PM

Thanks to you both, David and Alan,

Lots of useful tips!

BWC wax sounds like the easiest method. Is there any noticeable advantage to using something like Tru Oil or Danish oil, which seem to be more labour-intensive?

David · 23rd March 2013, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yuuzan

Thanks to you both, David and Alan,

Lots of useful tips!

BWC wax sounds like the easiest method. Is there any noticeable advantage to using something like Tru Oil or Danish oil, which seem to be more labour-intensive?

Personally i have used Tru oil when i am doing more of a re-finishing.
As Alan says, you can create a look similar to the traditional French polish with it. If i am simply trying to maintain the current finish i will apply Butcher's wax as a final step after cleaning the piece up a bit.

sirek · 25th March 2013, 12:07 PM

you might find some useful tips here:

http://www.woodworking.nl/upload/att...x%20primer.pdf

Bjorn · 25th March 2013, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David

Personally i have used Tru oil when i am doing more of a re-finishing.
As Alan says, you can create a look similar to the traditional French polish with it. If i am simply trying to maintain the current finish i will apply Butcher's wax as a final step after cleaning the piece up a bit.

Very clear distinction, David. Thanks for that. I'll be sure to puck up a supply of both items.

Sirek: a good introduction on how to use wax; a good addition to the thread.

David · 25th March 2013, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yuuzan

Sirek: a good introduction on how to use wax; a good addition to the thread.

I completely agree...a very informational link. Thanks!

20th March 2013, 03:41 PM	#1
Bjorn Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Netherlands Posts: 188	Maintaining/Beautifying Wrongkos (Ways, Tips, Materials, Pitfalls) The topic of maintaining/beautifying a wrongko comes up here and there on this forum. There, however, appears to be no thread uniquely devoted to this topic. I'd like to suggest to use this thread for exactly that purpose, i.e. to share ways, materials, tips & tricks, and pitfalls of performing work on wrongkos. In order to keep things informative, it could be helpful to explain the "why" behind certain actions. The "why" could, e.g., entail: - giving a polished appearance - protecting against dirt - preserving the wood - maintaining the current appearance - repairing/hiding small defects (emphasis on small) I hope this thread will provide members with some new knowledge which they'll be able to apply to their own keris collection.

20th March 2013, 04:17 PM	#2
Rick Vikingsword Staff Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 6,262	Here is an old thread that I started about a repair I had to make after a disastrous accident with a brand new Surakarta ladrang . http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showth...ghlight=repair I like using orange shellac when appropriate .

20th March 2013, 06:41 PM	#3
Sajen Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Germany, Dortmund Posts: 8,491	And here an old thread where have been done repair and maintaining by a small Peninsula keris from my collection: http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showth...4&page=2&pp=30 And here an old thread where I bring a tajong back to old glory: http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=11844

20th March 2013, 07:09 PM	#4
David Keris forum moderator Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Nova Scotia Posts: 7,025	I am a big fan of Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax. I think they went out of business, but i believe a company called BWC is still making this product.

23rd March 2013, 04:33 AM	#11
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 6,700	The original finish on most wrongkos is french polish, ie, shellac applied with a rubber, probably a standard piano finish of upwards of 16 applications is desireable. A shortcut is apply the shellac or varnish with brush, kill it, and rub back with rotten stone. Tru oil will give a good "fake finish". It requires absolutely no skill in use and gives a good hard durable finish, if you want imitate the finish of an older wrongko gently take off the gloss with 0000 steel wool. If you do not want to re-finish, but just lift the finish a bit, silicon car polish mixed with old fashinoned turps, ie, not mineral turps, and used with a rubber will get rid of the dead varnish without damaging the surface. Danish oil can be used in a similar way to Tru oil. If you just want to lift the finish a bit, a hand rub with baby oil will make any wrongko look about 100 times better. A good quality furniture wax such as Antiquax will protect the finish you have created. A "rubber" is a small square of linen or cotton cloth packed tightly with cotton wool and the ends twisted to create a little ball , you dip this into whatever you're using to load it and then you apply the finish by working in a figure of eight pattern. When doing a complete refinish the wood should be feathered before applying the finish. The traditional way to finish wood was with a damp cloth and a hot iron, these days we use a steam iron. This raises the grain and then the wood is polished back with steel wool, you continue until the grain does not raise any longer and your final polish before application of the finish is with 0000 steel wool.

23rd March 2013, 06:49 PM	#12
Bjorn Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Netherlands Posts: 188	Thanks to you both, David and Alan, Lots of useful tips! BWC wax sounds like the easiest method. Is there any noticeable advantage to using something like Tru Oil or Danish oil, which seem to be more labour-intensive?

25th March 2013, 12:07 PM	#14
sirek Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 165	you might find some useful tips here: http://www.woodworking.nl/upload/att...x%20primer.pdf