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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: France
Posts: 473
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The model of the book "Fatal Beauty" (Freddy) at the exhibit in Taiwan.
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#2 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Centerville, Kansas
Posts: 2,196
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Luc,
Thank you for the pictures and information. The one with the copper blade is absolutely amazing. ![]() Robert P.S. I do know NOT to use metal polish on the copper. ![]() |
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: France
Posts: 473
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Just rub it with a soft dry cloth, it will shine without being glossy.
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#4 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Centerville, Kansas
Posts: 2,196
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Luc,
Thank you for your reply and the advice on cleaning. This is probably as good a time as any to ask a question that I have been wondering about for quite a while now. If you have a piece that has either copper or brass on it and it has heavy green oxidation on it that is eating into the metal what is the best coarse of action to take to stop it and do you completely remove the oxidation or not? I have run into this problem a few times before (especially on items that were left for years in leather sheaths) and I always just cleaned the effected area completely free of the oxidation with penetrating oil and 0000 steel wool. Robert |
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: France
Posts: 473
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There are many "schools", but personnaly I clean.
Rust and oxidation are not patina for me, so I clean my knives. Especially if it is green oxidation, it is easy to clean to "new" copper and brass, but it also easy to make old with specific products.And you don't need a long time to have a soft matt, unpolished patina, which is better,for me , than a bad green. |
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#6 |
(deceased)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: East Coast USA
Posts: 3,191
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I agree with Luc you should clean the piece if there is any active rust of green oxidation that could damage the piece. If we can conserve our antiques properly they will be around for many future generations to enjoy.
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#7 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Centerville, Kansas
Posts: 2,196
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Luc and Lew,
Thank you for your help on the cleaning procedure. The knife has arrived today and I will post more pictures later. By looking at it I would say that it is easily late 19th to early 20th century. ![]() Robert |
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#8 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Centerville, Kansas
Posts: 2,196
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Hello everyone. Here are the pictures that I promised. The knife does have some damage to the wire work that should not be too difficult to repair. One of the horns on the scabbard is also partially broken and will require a little more effort in its repair. The pictures are of the knife as it arrived without anything being done to it at all. Very nicely decorated blade. The hilt on the knife is bound in some form of reptile skin (the scales are quite obvious) and then the wire. The wooden scabbard is also covered in skin of undetermined origin and then wire. I could not get a decent picture of the hilt that would show the scales though but will try again tomorrow. It looks to me that the blade had been stored in the scabbard and had become stuck from the shrinkage to the wood and skin and the damage was probably caused when the owner tried to forcibly remove it.
![]() Robert p.s. Picture of skin on hilt added. Last edited by Robert Coleman; 26th February 2010 at 03:22 AM. |
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#9 | |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Paris (FR*) Cairo (EG)
Posts: 1,142
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I know, after argued about this topic, it's not the course of action for everyone I share absolutely your position, according with my understanding; - dirt, old oil, rust aren't "patina", and weapons have to be maintained in good shape, as well as "Sajen" did it, with his beautiful old Yakoma knife not necessary to get the blade "white", but clean, that's it ![]() "Sagen" very good job, your knife it's amazing ![]() à + Dom |
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#10 | |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
Posts: 9,263
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Hi Dom, sadly I have to say that this indeed beautiful Yakoma knife belong to Robert! ![]() ![]() |
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