Need help on cleaning rusty blade!!!

philkid · 23rd May 2005, 08:09 PM

here are the pics of the sword.

Federico · 23rd May 2005, 09:27 PM

When you said rusty, I was expecting something that was more rust than sword, but this piece is in good condition. Lemon juice, vinegar, or any other juice that is acidic will remove rust, but it will also remove patina. So that can be a catch 22, depending whether or not you want the blade etched. The plus side, if the blade is laminated then it will show the lamination after etching. Just make sure to clean the blade of any grease/dirt before using the lemon juice. Kerosene would work with that, so would acetone (that is what I use). If you do not want to etch, with a blade in this good of condition, soaking it in a little WD-40 (or any other similar penetrating oil) and then scrubbing with #0000 steel wool should remove any active rust. Make sure it is at least #0000 steel wool or finer, as while it will remove rust, it will break off on the harder steel, and therefore not scratch the original finish. Anything coarser will scratch. Anyways, nice blade.

tom hyle · 24th May 2005, 12:55 PM

Yeah, that's in great shape; I'm tempted to say "just oil it and put a handle on" but there are a couple/few slightly crusty spots of active rust that should probably be removed. I also often use steel wool. Usually with light machine oil, or with alcohol (cheap and disolves hardened down oil; if you get isopropyl get the 90% kind; it's significantly better as a solvent). A word about steel wool though: It is usually softer than the blade, and certainly softer than corrosion patina (though it will attack hardened down oil, of course), and I use it myself, but some cutlers say the tiny crumbs it leaves behind in the microgrooves in the polished surface of a blade can serve as places for a rust spot to start. This is primarily of interest re stainless steel, but just some input. You can get bronze wool, but it is less available and more expensive. I think an auto parts store may be the place to get it.

philkid · 24th May 2005, 04:09 PM

Thanks for the help guys. Will post pics of the finished product.

23rd May 2005, 08:09 PM	#1
philkid Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Philippines Posts: 52	here are the pics of the sword. Attached Images

23rd May 2005, 09:27 PM	#2
Federico Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Minneapolis, MN, USA Posts: 312	When you said rusty, I was expecting something that was more rust than sword, but this piece is in good condition. Lemon juice, vinegar, or any other juice that is acidic will remove rust, but it will also remove patina. So that can be a catch 22, depending whether or not you want the blade etched. The plus side, if the blade is laminated then it will show the lamination after etching. Just make sure to clean the blade of any grease/dirt before using the lemon juice. Kerosene would work with that, so would acetone (that is what I use). If you do not want to etch, with a blade in this good of condition, soaking it in a little WD-40 (or any other similar penetrating oil) and then scrubbing with #0000 steel wool should remove any active rust. Make sure it is at least #0000 steel wool or finer, as while it will remove rust, it will break off on the harder steel, and therefore not scratch the original finish. Anything coarser will scratch. Anyways, nice blade.

24th May 2005, 12:55 PM	#3
tom hyle Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Houston, TX, USA Posts: 1,254	Yeah, that's in great shape; I'm tempted to say "just oil it and put a handle on" but there are a couple/few slightly crusty spots of active rust that should probably be removed. I also often use steel wool. Usually with light machine oil, or with alcohol (cheap and disolves hardened down oil; if you get isopropyl get the 90% kind; it's significantly better as a solvent). A word about steel wool though: It is usually softer than the blade, and certainly softer than corrosion patina (though it will attack hardened down oil, of course), and I use it myself, but some cutlers say the tiny crumbs it leaves behind in the microgrooves in the polished surface of a blade can serve as places for a rust spot to start. This is primarily of interest re stainless steel, but just some input. You can get bronze wool, but it is less available and more expensive. I think an auto parts store may be the place to get it.

24th May 2005, 04:09 PM	#4
philkid Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Philippines Posts: 52	Thanks for the help guys. Will post pics of the finished product.