Barong restoration suggestion...

zelbone · 15th December 2004, 06:01 PM

These two photos show how I jigged up the blade and hilt for gluing. I used a putty type epoxy here as well, but the darker stuff for metal. I used one of those squeeze clamps to hold the blade in place to the hilt. I then clamped this upright on my little B&D workmate. This way the epoxy would seep out even though it was a putty form. Worked great.

zelbone · 15th December 2004, 06:10 PM

This is the part that will interest you, Spunger. Once the blade is firmly glued into the hilt. I taped off the punto and the blade with some masking tape. This is so the putty wouldn't get onto the outside of the punto and on the blade. I then added some putty into this gap between the punto and the blade. Use a putty knife to smooth it out. I also had this jigged up just like before when I was gluing the blade to the hilt to keep it pretty level. Once the putty sets, sand down the putty to your liking. It's probably safer to leave the masking tape on until your done sanding. Once your done, remove the tape and do whatever sanding is necessary...I did more final sanding to the hilt.

zelbone · 15th December 2004, 06:21 PM

Finally, add your finishing touches. For this barong. I first did a single layer wrap with hemp. For added grip, I added a second layer of braided hemp in short sections. I would have done it the way the do this in Sulu, but I can't figure it out and is way too complicated. I could have asked my father, but it's been a long time for him do something like this. The next photo shows me laquering the hemp grip. Traditionally, you would use pitch, but since I decided to use modern methods from the beginning, I mixed up some clear laquer (believe it or not its the Testors model airplane stuff you get at hobby store) mixed with some black pigment (I used this India ink I had laying around in an old calligraphy set...HEY IT WORKED

!) The laquer also helps bind the fibers of the hemp together and seals it. Finally, the last step was to stain the wood putty in the punto. I chose a dark stain...I forgot what color it was...I think rosewood. Looks real enough to me. The last photo is the completed barong. I wish I took a better pic of it. See...it wasn't that hard to do.

Spunjer · 15th December 2004, 08:56 PM

mmmmkay. let's see, where was i? oh yeah, how do i remove the punto *scratch head*

?

zel, nice job. definitely archive this thread. i'm afraid that's way too advance for me. this barong is too purty for me to screw up on. i think i'll settle with the pitch option. so where can i get this pitch? also, mabagani, can you elaborate a little bit more on "You could round out the ferrule edge by working a rod from the inside before you decide on pitch or epoxy"? thx in advance...

15th December 2004, 06:01 PM	#1
zelbone Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: VISAYAS and MINDANAO Posts: 169	These two photos show how I jigged up the blade and hilt for gluing. I used a putty type epoxy here as well, but the darker stuff for metal. I used one of those squeeze clamps to hold the blade in place to the hilt. I then clamped this upright on my little B&D workmate. This way the epoxy would seep out even though it was a putty form. Worked great. Attached Images

15th December 2004, 06:10 PM	#2
zelbone Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: VISAYAS and MINDANAO Posts: 169	This is the part that will interest you, Spunger. Once the blade is firmly glued into the hilt. I taped off the punto and the blade with some masking tape. This is so the putty wouldn't get onto the outside of the punto and on the blade. I then added some putty into this gap between the punto and the blade. Use a putty knife to smooth it out. I also had this jigged up just like before when I was gluing the blade to the hilt to keep it pretty level. Once the putty sets, sand down the putty to your liking. It's probably safer to leave the masking tape on until your done sanding. Once your done, remove the tape and do whatever sanding is necessary...I did more final sanding to the hilt. Attached Images

15th December 2004, 06:21 PM	#3
zelbone Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: VISAYAS and MINDANAO Posts: 169	Finally, add your finishing touches. For this barong. I first did a single layer wrap with hemp. For added grip, I added a second layer of braided hemp in short sections. I would have done it the way the do this in Sulu, but I can't figure it out and is way too complicated. I could have asked my father, but it's been a long time for him do something like this. The next photo shows me laquering the hemp grip. Traditionally, you would use pitch, but since I decided to use modern methods from the beginning, I mixed up some clear laquer (believe it or not its the Testors model airplane stuff you get at hobby store) mixed with some black pigment (I used this India ink I had laying around in an old calligraphy set...HEY IT WORKED !) The laquer also helps bind the fibers of the hemp together and seals it. Finally, the last step was to stain the wood putty in the punto. I chose a dark stain...I forgot what color it was...I think rosewood. Looks real enough to me. The last photo is the completed barong. I wish I took a better pic of it. See...it wasn't that hard to do. Attached Images

15th December 2004, 08:56 PM	#4
Spunjer Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Witness Protection Program Posts: 1,730	mmmmkay. let's see, where was i? oh yeah, how do i remove the punto scratch head ? zel, nice job. definitely archive this thread. i'm afraid that's way too advance for me. this barong is too purty for me to screw up on. i think i'll settle with the pitch option. so where can i get this pitch? also, mabagani, can you elaborate a little bit more on "You could round out the ferrule edge by working a rod from the inside before you decide on pitch or epoxy"? thx in advance...