Sandblasting a Sword?

Jeff D · 20th September 2009, 03:49 PM

Thanks Kronckew,

I used 30-60 crushed glass on the square above, and I think it is too aggressive to use on a sword. I will experiment with the glass beads next. In this thread ( http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showth...t=sandblasting ) it was suggested to use coal slag 'black beauty', wouldn't that be more aggressive than crushed glass? Has any one used it?

Atlantia, the appearance is very similar to a vinegar etch, with a flat dull grey appearance to the metal. I think that is more a result on the oxidation below the original rust in this case? You are also right that the result took only a few seconds and is actually more controllable than a vinegar etch.

Thanks
Jeff

G. McCormack · 20th September 2009, 04:37 PM

maybe you could try a lighter medium, like walnut shells?

kronckew · 20th September 2009, 05:07 PM

having read the post no. 4, i was about to also suggest ground up walnut shells, the cutter i served on had two Solar 1000 HP gas turbine engines (as well as two 1500 HP diesels), and we would occasionally have to clean the crud off the blades, we'd slowly dump a sack of ground walnut shells in the air intake. worked a treat. nice smoke and sparks out the stern exhausts too!

other forms of shells were tried, but walnut worked the best and was the least destructive.

glass bead blasting, a less intensive form of shot blasting, can also increase the surface hardness of the metal slightly due to the compression of the metal in the teeny dimples created by the impact, where sharp abrasives are more likely to cut away material.

you can also get plastic beads for even more benign bead blasting crud removal. linky on available mtls.

Jeff D · 20th September 2009, 10:57 PM

Thanks guys I will give it a try.

Jeff

Jeff Pringle · 22nd September 2009, 10:37 AM

Archaeologists use the technique, here is a Swedish article that cites the use of a microblaster with aluminum oxide abrasive to clean up & reveal details on a couple swords:
http://fornvannen.se/pdf/1980talet/1981_016.pdf
You can find very fine abrasives on line, I once got some 40μ glass beads from a company that supplies equipment for cleaning up dental castings.

Gunnel Werner
“Konservering av tre vikingatida svärd med inläggningar”
“Med hjälp av mikrobläster (aluminiumoxid som blästermedd) frilades de fragmentariska inläggningarna av tunna koppar- och bronstrådar på hjälten och knappen.”

Ferguson · 22nd September 2009, 02:37 PM

Jeff, I use a mild chemical called Evapo-Rust. Don't know if it's available in B.C. though.
http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.html
It will, with soaking, remove serious rust. But it's not a harsh chemical like Naval Jelly. It does remove all the patina though. I buy mine at Pep Boys auto parts store.

Steve

p.s.
Here are the distributors in B.C. if you're interested
http://www.nicks.ca/ER.dist.html

ward · 22nd September 2009, 02:48 PM

Sandblasting antiques is a bad idea. It ruins the value of a piece giving it a pebbled finish that can not be repaired. Also the dead gray appearance is disturbing. I would strongly suggest using milder options. Leaving patina in crevaces is what gives a piece some character not a factory overcleaned appearence.

20th September 2009, 05:07 PM	#3
kronckew Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Room 101, Glos. UK Posts: 4,224	having read the post no. 4, i was about to also suggest ground up walnut shells, the cutter i served on had two Solar 1000 HP gas turbine engines (as well as two 1500 HP diesels), and we would occasionally have to clean the crud off the blades, we'd slowly dump a sack of ground walnut shells in the air intake. worked a treat. nice smoke and sparks out the stern exhausts too! other forms of shells were tried, but walnut worked the best and was the least destructive. glass bead blasting, a less intensive form of shot blasting, can also increase the surface hardness of the metal slightly due to the compression of the metal in the teeny dimples created by the impact, where sharp abrasives are more likely to cut away material. you can also get plastic beads for even more benign bead blasting crud removal. linky on available mtls. Last edited by kronckew; 20th September 2009 at 05:31 PM.

20th September 2009, 03:49 PM	#1
Jeff D Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: B.C. Canada Posts: 473	Thanks Kronckew, I used 30-60 crushed glass on the square above, and I think it is too aggressive to use on a sword. I will experiment with the glass beads next. In this thread ( http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showth...t=sandblasting ) it was suggested to use coal slag 'black beauty', wouldn't that be more aggressive than crushed glass? Has any one used it? Atlantia, the appearance is very similar to a vinegar etch, with a flat dull grey appearance to the metal. I think that is more a result on the oxidation below the original rust in this case? You are also right that the result took only a few seconds and is actually more controllable than a vinegar etch. Thanks Jeff

20th September 2009, 04:37 PM	#2
G. McCormack Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Tallahassee, FL Posts: 131	maybe you could try a lighter medium, like walnut shells?

20th September 2009, 10:57 PM	#4
Jeff D Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: B.C. Canada Posts: 473	Thanks guys I will give it a try. Jeff

22nd September 2009, 10:37 AM	#5
Jeff Pringle Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 189	Archaeologists use the technique, here is a Swedish article that cites the use of a microblaster with aluminum oxide abrasive to clean up & reveal details on a couple swords: http://fornvannen.se/pdf/1980talet/1981_016.pdf You can find very fine abrasives on line, I once got some 40μ glass beads from a company that supplies equipment for cleaning up dental castings. Gunnel Werner “Konservering av tre vikingatida svärd med inläggningar” “Med hjälp av mikrobläster (aluminiumoxid som blästermedd) frilades de fragmentariska inläggningarna av tunna koppar- och bronstrådar på hjälten och knappen.”

22nd September 2009, 02:37 PM	#6
Ferguson Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Kernersville, NC, USA Posts: 793	Jeff, I use a mild chemical called Evapo-Rust. Don't know if it's available in B.C. though. http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.html It will, with soaking, remove serious rust. But it's not a harsh chemical like Naval Jelly. It does remove all the patina though. I buy mine at Pep Boys auto parts store. Steve p.s. Here are the distributors in B.C. if you're interested http://www.nicks.ca/ER.dist.html

22nd September 2009, 02:48 PM	#7
ward Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 637	Sandblasting antiques is a bad idea. It ruins the value of a piece giving it a pebbled finish that can not be repaired. Also the dead gray appearance is disturbing. I would strongly suggest using milder options. Leaving patina in crevaces is what gives a piece some character not a factory overcleaned appearence.