Victorian Wall Decoration?

[Robert]

OK I have a few more questions about this sword.
#1 Should I try to clean it anymore than I already have and if so what would be the best way to do it and what would be the best things to use? After stripping off the paint I used 0000 steel wool and machine oil to get it where it is now.
#2 Should I try to re-wrap the wire on the grip? I do have a couple of small pieces of the original wrap, a small piece of twisted or braided wire and a piece of solid wire.
#3 Where should the POB be on this?
Thank you all for any answers that you can offer to my questions.

Robert

[Atlantia]

Originally Posted by Robert Coleman

OK I have a few more questions about this sword.
#1 Should I try to clean it anymore than I already have and if so what would be the best way to do it and what would be the best things to use? After stripping off the paint I used 0000 steel wool and machine oil to get it where it is now.
#2 Should I try to re-wrap the wire on the grip? I do have a couple of small pieces of the original wrap, a small piece of twisted or braided wire and a piece of solid wire.
#3 Where should the POB be on this?
Thank you all for any answers that you can offer to my questions.

Robert

Hi Robert.

1. Cleaning.
I think it loks fine already, a few areas look like they need a little more but it seems generally fine. Soooo, a little more of what you've done on the darker metal of the hilt/guard probobly wont hurt. Stick with the w-wool and machine oil, Its a fairly gently way to do it.
I'd say if you are going to do it, then identify the 'solder' or whatever it is first. If its the remains of the aluminium paint you mentioned then it can come off, if its a hard solder then you'll want to be careful if you continue the cleaning so you don't flex any of the joins and crack the solder.
Whatever you decide, I would say do it by hand. Don't be tempted to have a bash with your Dremel or anything powered.
With cleaning, you can always do a little bit more if you need to, but once you clean too harshly or leave grinding marks etc it can be difficult to disguise.

2. Re-wrapping.
This is a question of personal tastes.
Can you p[ost a pic of the bits of wire you removed?
Many very fine old swords have lost their wire wrap. Yours looks fine the way it is.
If you re-wrap it, then it needs to be done completely in keeping or it could make the sword look more like a repro/mix-n-match.
If you want to do it, then I would be happy to search my books for pictures of wired hilts that might help.

Is the tang visible in that split BTW?

3. POB.

OK, well I guess we have to decide if it was intended for 'fencing' on foot or its heavy construction was more for thrusting from horseback.
I tend to think the heavy blade and long handle mean it would be best for thrusting from horseback.
The POB on your sword is a little far forward (towards the point) for a rapier, (I would expect it to be more around 4 inches from the quillon block), and the handle and size would make is a little clumsy.
From horseback I can see it being fine for it to be a little further forward 5-6 inches.


So, my 'bottom line' views.
I love it.
A little more cleaning, but dont rush it.
Handle, fine as it is, so perhaps re-wrap if you can find the perfect wire to do it but it really doesn't matter.
POB, fine.


Just my opinons

[Robert]

Hi Gene, thank you for your advice on the cleaning of this piece. You can rest assured that I would NEVER under any circumstances use any motorized tool in the cleaning of any of my pieces. To answer your question, yes the tang can be seen where the hilt is cracked.
After thinking about it I have decided to leave the hilt wrapping as is. I don't think that it could be done properly with out removing the fittings which would require grinding the riveted end of the tang to remove of the pommel. I will try to clean the remaining paint and some of the rust from the joints and crevasses of the hilt. Thank you again for all your help.

Robert

[Atlantia]

Originally Posted by Robert Coleman

Hi Gene, thank you for your advice on the cleaning of this piece. You can rest assured that I would NEVER under any circumstances use any motorized tool in the cleaning of any of my pieces. To answer your question, yes the tang can be seen where the hilt is cracked.
After thinking about it I have decided to leave the hilt wrapping as is. I don't think that it could be done properly with out removing the fittings which would require grinding the riveted end of the tang to remove of the pommel. I will try to clean the remaining paint and some of the rust from the joints and crevasses of the hilt. Thank you again for all your help.

Robert

You are more than welcome Robert.
Does the glimpse of tang give any more clues?

[Robert]

Unfortunately no, only about 2 inches of the tang can be seen in the split. It is well patinated (rusted ) but I can see no forging seam from being extended. Not sure if that is good or bad.

Robert

[Atlantia]

Originally Posted by Robert Coleman

Unfortunately no, only about 2 inches of the tang can be seen in the split. It is well patinated (rusted ) but I can see no forging seam from being extended. Not sure if that is good or bad.

Robert

Well its better than seeing a big weld
I think its a great piece! Please post more pictures if you do any cleaning or work on it.

All the Best
Gene

[Robert]

Gene, I would like to thank you, Kisak and Celtan once again for all of your help and time with this sword. With quite a bit of winter left ahead and to help keep myself from getting a bad case of cabin fever I will probably do a little more cleaning on this and try to remove the last of the paint and a little more of the rust from the hilt. I'll also clean the blade a little better while I'm at it. When done I will be more than happy to post more pictures.

With My Best Regards
Robert