Rasak Restoration.

Norman McCormick · 24th September 2008, 10:46 PM

Hi Ward,
Photo of spring and hammer sear without cover. I cannot cock the hammer with bits in position as per photo. I compressed the spring by external means to the next position and engaged the trigger sear, I was able to fully cock the piece but when I released the trigger the spring brought down the hammer as it should but it, the spring, disengaged from the hammer sear resulting in the spring protruding from the bottom of the lock just the same as when I first removed lock. I am sure there is too much wear between the mainspring and the hammer sear and this wear is enough to guarantee that they will disengage from each other every time. This is why the lock appeared at first not to fit or to be a replacement as the disengaged spring had pushed the whole lock upwards causing the crushing effect to the brass sheet adjacent to the top of the lock. Without either making new spring or new hammer sear I don't see how I can get lock to work properly, I think for display I will remove mainspring, keeping it safe of course, so that I can engage hammer in first cocking position so that the pan cover will close. If you have any other suggestions that would be great.
Thanks again for your help.
My Regards,
Norman.

ward · 24th September 2008, 11:30 PM

this is fixable. basically you need to beef up 2 areas the main is where the sear meets the spring and where the sear is in the safe condition. pick up some thin metal strips worse case brass.add a strip to the section that meets the spring. you can solder this and it will engage properly also where the trigger lever meets sear you could add a piece but that is secondary. will take about 1/2 hr for cutting filling and then soldering. I would not go to war with this fix but should last extreamly well for our purposes. If it is a issue ship the lock to me and I will fix it.

Norman McCormick · 25th September 2008, 07:36 PM

Hi Ward,
Many thanks for the advice, I'm keen to have a go at this myself but I'll keep your kind offer in mind. I have plenty of mild steel and EN45 spring steel which I have used for making blades before but no soldering iron, easy and cheap to get though. I use epoxy a lot in blade construction would it be strong enough for this or should I stick to soldering, stronger and more appropriate? Approx how much past the present end of the sear should I be aiming to extend. Thanks again.
My Regards,
Norman.

ward · 25th September 2008, 09:15 PM

as long as you are not firing it should not be a problem you are not going to have to add to much pic should give you a pretty good idea

Norman McCormick · 25th September 2008, 09:38 PM

Hi Ward,
That seems pretty clear, will give it a shot.
My Regards,
Norman.

ward · 1st October 2008, 12:16 AM

how is the repair going ?

24th September 2008, 10:46 PM	#1
Norman McCormick Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 1,618	Hi Ward, Photo of spring and hammer sear without cover. I cannot cock the hammer with bits in position as per photo. I compressed the spring by external means to the next position and engaged the trigger sear, I was able to fully cock the piece but when I released the trigger the spring brought down the hammer as it should but it, the spring, disengaged from the hammer sear resulting in the spring protruding from the bottom of the lock just the same as when I first removed lock. I am sure there is too much wear between the mainspring and the hammer sear and this wear is enough to guarantee that they will disengage from each other every time. This is why the lock appeared at first not to fit or to be a replacement as the disengaged spring had pushed the whole lock upwards causing the crushing effect to the brass sheet adjacent to the top of the lock. Without either making new spring or new hammer sear I don't see how I can get lock to work properly, I think for display I will remove mainspring, keeping it safe of course, so that I can engage hammer in first cocking position so that the pan cover will close. If you have any other suggestions that would be great. Thanks again for your help. My Regards, Norman. Attached Images

25th September 2008, 09:15 PM	#4
ward Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 637	as long as you are not firing it should not be a problem you are not going to have to add to much pic should give you a pretty good idea Attached Images

24th September 2008, 11:30 PM	#2
ward Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 637	this is fixable. basically you need to beef up 2 areas the main is where the sear meets the spring and where the sear is in the safe condition. pick up some thin metal strips worse case brass.add a strip to the section that meets the spring. you can solder this and it will engage properly also where the trigger lever meets sear you could add a piece but that is secondary. will take about 1/2 hr for cutting filling and then soldering. I would not go to war with this fix but should last extreamly well for our purposes. If it is a issue ship the lock to me and I will fix it.

25th September 2008, 07:36 PM	#3
Norman McCormick Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 1,618	Hi Ward, Many thanks for the advice, I'm keen to have a go at this myself but I'll keep your kind offer in mind. I have plenty of mild steel and EN45 spring steel which I have used for making blades before but no soldering iron, easy and cheap to get though. I use epoxy a lot in blade construction would it be strong enough for this or should I stick to soldering, stronger and more appropriate? Approx how much past the present end of the sear should I be aiming to extend. Thanks again. My Regards, Norman.

25th September 2008, 09:38 PM	#5
Norman McCormick Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 1,618	Hi Ward, That seems pretty clear, will give it a shot. My Regards, Norman.

1st October 2008, 12:16 AM	#6
ward Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 637	how is the repair going ?