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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: The Sharp end
Posts: 2,928
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Fantastic.
remember how people used to make their own brickwork BBQs? Nice one of those with careful ventilation would produce plenty enough heat to get a sword bar hot enough to work. Probobly have to use heatproof bricks as you're gonna use it regularly. Use an old wrought iron grate out of a coal fire (set in of course). boot sales are a great source of BIG old hammers of various sizes. Of course the neighbours will love you! |
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#2 | |
(deceased)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Portugal
Posts: 9,694
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#3 |
Arms Historian
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Route 66
Posts: 10,458
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LOL!! That is great David! Love the analogy about Wile Coyote and the roadrunner
![]() ![]() Really interesting piece, and I really like your approach to the hands on facet on sword study. I have never fully grasped the metallurgy end of things, and really admire those here who are so well versed in that perspective. It definitely adds new dimension in understanding and evaluating the weapons. I think you and Fernando bring neverending fascination into these threads with the incredibly eclectic things you guys find! Somehow it makes the discussions more three dimensional. Thank you! ![]() All the best, Jim |
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: The Sharp end
Posts: 2,928
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P.S.
Love the 'Stonehenge' rollers moving method! |
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 7,047
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Looks like you scored well here.
Best anvil I ever used was one at Hawkesbury Agricultural College, when I was being taught by Gordon Blackwell. Beautiful old English one, 350pounds, and had almost no work since the day it had been made. You get a good big anvil, it does half the work for you. My own anvil is only 75 kilos, and made in Singapore. Not much of an anvil, but it does the job. I've got another little no-name anvil that I've had the work table precision ground on, that I can use for getting blades really true. How do you intend to mount this anvil? Might be a bit difficult to get a big enough hardwood stump. The stump needs to support the full base, and should go about 3 feet into the ground. You set the anvil height so that when you stand beside it with a clenched fist, your knuckles just brush the work table. The whole thing needs to be square, and the horn goes to your left. Anyway, nice anvil. |
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Kent
Posts: 2,658
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Thank you all for your comments.
Atlantia, the ancient technological 'rollers' work a treat ![]() This 'beasty' was down in a household cellar....and was a logistic nightmare to get out, a 'counter balanced hoist', make-shift supports and alot of grunting ...eventually 'eased' the anvil through a small window ![]() Ah, the neighbours, fortunately they are used to my 'eccentricities'....but I will have to 'limit' the noise pollution : ....well I'll try ![]() My forge is 'under construction', I'm using a cast iron BBQ which I will line with refractory, a steel pipe will be fitted (drilled) to direct air. I have already got a little compressor to provide the 'blow'. I have already started to search 'boot fairs' and already have a number of hammers, files etc (all dirt cheap ![]() Hi A G Maisey, this anvil is around 250kgs ( 519 lbs) in weight ![]() The anvil's manufacturer is 'Peter Wright' , so the anvil is circa 1860....I do not know when they ceased trading. It also seems that 'Peter Wright' produced quality anvils that are still covetted today. (I found a web site dated 2003 that was offering a 350lbs version for $1400 ![]() ![]() Kind Regards David |
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#7 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: The Sharp end
Posts: 2,928
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Its a beauty David!
How the hell did you come by it? LOL, did the seller deliver? I know the ancient Celts ran the Stonehenge sarcens down from Wales on rollers but......... ;-) Regards Gene |
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