Kurdistan dagger

Lew · 22nd April 2008, 11:21 AM

Dizos

There are a couple of othe forum members that are kicking themselves also

It is an older late 19th century Kurdish jambiya in good shape I think the blade is not wootz due to it's size most of the wootz blades are smaller 7-8 inch range
still it was a steal for $70.

Lew

ALEX · 22nd April 2008, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LOUIEBLADES

Dizos
...I think the blade is not wootz due to it's size most of the wootz blades are smaller 7-8 inch range... still it was a steal for $70.
Lew

Lew, you're right.... the larger blades are rare of wootz, but if they are - they are often of the nicest pattern like Kirk Narduban ladder, and the nicest I've seen are quite large- about 10''.
By the way, I know the person who got this dagger, and I'll let you know if it's wootz.

ALEX · 8th May 2008, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LOUIEBLADES

... I think the blade is not wootz due to it's size most of the wootz blades are smaller 7-8 inch range still it was a steal for $70.
Lew

Lew/Dizos,
I had a pleasure of polishing/etching this blade. As I expected (quessed:-), the steel is wootz, but I expected ladder pattern for $70:-)
The coins are Turkish, dated as of 1929, and with Tughras struck on one side. I think they's later addition along with the water buffalo hilt and scabbard. Overall - a spectacular blade - wide, long and in fantastic condition. Lew was right - a steal... I think he meant a wootz steeal:-)

ALEX · 8th May 2008, 07:20 PM

... few more pictures of Kurdish-style daggers (they also can be Persian or Turkish as well !?). All blades are over 10 inches long, and all are wootz (note the lighter quench areas near the hilts). One blade, in the middle, has a spectacular ladder Kirk Narduban pattern.

Lew · 8th May 2008, 07:24 PM

Alex

Do you hear that strange sound? That's me banging my head against my key board

Lew

ALEX · 8th May 2008, 07:47 PM

... that is funny, Lew

TVV · 8th May 2008, 08:17 PM

Alex, this looks amazing. What are your secrets when polishing and etching a blade? How do you polish - very fine sandpaper, or something else? And what do you use for the etch? I would love to get a few tips from you (or the whole manual), as I have a Syrian dagger which exhibits a low-contrast pattern that I would emphasize a little more. Also, when you have a blade in a not so good shape, with heavy patina and pot marks, is there any way to coax a pattern out? I have a damascus yataghan, which exhibits four rows of Turkish ribbon on a small part of the blade, but I have failed miserably in my attempts to reveal the pattern on the rest of the blade.
Thanks,
Teodor

ALEX · 8th May 2008, 10:26 PM

Teodor,
What I've learned is that good quality wootz requires minimum effort to be brought up nicely. Wootz blades which were not polished, grinded and buffed too much during their lifetime have tendency for better contrast when etched. Just like the examples shown above - these blades were in excellent condition, not just well preserved, but not "touched" much. They required almost no mechanical work. All I did was polished them gently with the polishing paste until the surface became mirror-like/shiny, then cleaned it with alcohol and etched with FerroChloride (FeCl) solution. I've worked with good wootz blades with heavy pitting, and when test-etched they were showing good pattern, but when grinded and polished to get rid of pitting - the pattern often lost its contrast and became distorted. I'd strongly recomment NOT to overgrind and overpolish wootz. The goal is to make an entire surface mirror-like without taking too much metal off and without overheating the blade - the less mechanical intrusion - the better! You can use very fine sandpaper with water, then sandpaper with oil, followed by dry sandpaper and buffing, and once the surface looks mirror-like -- stop!
Now, when wootz is low-contrast (especially Turkish or Syrian sham type) - this is how it meant to be by design, and there is not much one can do to increase the contrast, except of trying different etching methods - FeCl, acid, etc. and if it happens to be sham (low contrast wootz) - it'd stay this way:-) Finally, a wootz blade can have areas of pattern loss - different reasons - overheating, overpolishing, underheating:-) Good wootz will always show it's best with almost any etchant, and this is the secret:-) Hope it helps.

8th May 2008, 07:20 PM	#4
ALEX Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 936	... few more pictures of Kurdish-style daggers (they also can be Persian or Turkish as well !?). All blades are over 10 inches long, and all are wootz (note the lighter quench areas near the hilts). One blade, in the middle, has a spectacular ladder Kirk Narduban pattern. Attached Images

22nd April 2008, 11:21 AM	#1
Lew (deceased) Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: East Coast USA Posts: 3,191	Dizos There are a couple of othe forum members that are kicking themselves also It is an older late 19th century Kurdish jambiya in good shape I think the blade is not wootz due to it's size most of the wootz blades are smaller 7-8 inch range still it was a steal for $70. Lew

8th May 2008, 07:24 PM	#5
Lew (deceased) Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: East Coast USA Posts: 3,191	Alex Do you hear that strange sound? That's me banging my head against my key board Lew

8th May 2008, 07:47 PM	#6
ALEX Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 936	... that is funny, Lew

8th May 2008, 08:17 PM	#7
TVV Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Bay Area Posts: 1,660	Alex, this looks amazing. What are your secrets when polishing and etching a blade? How do you polish - very fine sandpaper, or something else? And what do you use for the etch? I would love to get a few tips from you (or the whole manual), as I have a Syrian dagger which exhibits a low-contrast pattern that I would emphasize a little more. Also, when you have a blade in a not so good shape, with heavy patina and pot marks, is there any way to coax a pattern out? I have a damascus yataghan, which exhibits four rows of Turkish ribbon on a small part of the blade, but I have failed miserably in my attempts to reveal the pattern on the rest of the blade. Thanks, Teodor

8th May 2008, 10:26 PM	#8
ALEX Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 936	Teodor, What I've learned is that good quality wootz requires minimum effort to be brought up nicely. Wootz blades which were not polished, grinded and buffed too much during their lifetime have tendency for better contrast when etched. Just like the examples shown above - these blades were in excellent condition, not just well preserved, but not "touched" much. They required almost no mechanical work. All I did was polished them gently with the polishing paste until the surface became mirror-like/shiny, then cleaned it with alcohol and etched with FerroChloride (FeCl) solution. I've worked with good wootz blades with heavy pitting, and when test-etched they were showing good pattern, but when grinded and polished to get rid of pitting - the pattern often lost its contrast and became distorted. I'd strongly recomment NOT to overgrind and overpolish wootz. The goal is to make an entire surface mirror-like without taking too much metal off and without overheating the blade - the less mechanical intrusion - the better! You can use very fine sandpaper with water, then sandpaper with oil, followed by dry sandpaper and buffing, and once the surface looks mirror-like -- stop! Now, when wootz is low-contrast (especially Turkish or Syrian sham type) - this is how it meant to be by design, and there is not much one can do to increase the contrast, except of trying different etching methods - FeCl, acid, etc. and if it happens to be sham (low contrast wootz) - it'd stay this way:-) Finally, a wootz blade can have areas of pattern loss - different reasons - overheating, overpolishing, underheating:-) Good wootz will always show it's best with almost any etchant, and this is the secret:-) Hope it helps.