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#1 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,272
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Alan, I think you have a nice piece. It is much older, although I agree that the wrapping is very recent. I would put it at possibly an early Maguindanao with elephant ivory. The ivory pommel is usually in the shape of a modified/stylized cockatu head, only in this case without the back crest. This is not unusual especially for earlier forms that used a smaller pommel according to Cato.
What throws me off is the type of blade fuller - never seen this on any Moro blade before now. ![]() Everything else appears right though. Yes etch it - I'm sure a pattern will come out. |
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 164
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Thank You Battara
I attempted etching and I know these would look great if I new what I was doing but here is the results of my inexperience The new one with the fuller has gold on the tip and it runs part way down the fuller ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#3 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,272
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Very nice. Is it gold or brass? Brass will react - darken upon etch. Gold won't react at all.
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 164
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Thanks
It must be gold as it just remains golden and does not darken The dot on the other might be brass as it does darken but then with just a gentle rub it looks like a mirror, it stays very shiny |
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,255
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Hello Alan,
Nice new aquisition and your other piece is just great! How long are the blades? I'm not so sure about the Maguindanao attribution - what speaks against a Sulu blade, Jose? I agree with Jose that this pommel looks like elephant ivory. (Sea ivory used by Moros is often from male Dugong but other sources are also known.) Could it be that such an asymetrical, narrow fuller was inspired by colonial blades? I seem to remember 2 other kris with similarly unusual fuller. You really have to be careful with ferric chloride! Ammonia is better for neutralizing in cracks and other crevices. I'm very partial to cleaning and staining with weak vinegar since it is gentle on the blade and doesn't need any extra neutralization step - just thoroughly drying the blade (e.g. with the aid of a hair dryer) is needed. Try to heat the blade and vinegar for staining (after finishing cleaning, including all rust). http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showpo...7&postcount=15 http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showpo...84&postcount=4 Regards, Kai |
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 164
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Thanks Kia
The blades measured down the center fom the hilt to the tip are 20.25 and 21.38 I intend to clean and re etch using just viniger |
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#7 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,272
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I took another look at this - it might be Sulu, I'm just used to Sulu being a little more eliptical in the mouth, but it is possible....
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