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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Devon ,England
Posts: 80
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Thanks Henk for looking that up thats a great help and interesting
![]() Hi Empu Kumis ![]() Also after more cleaning i have discovred that there is a wafer thin gold shim between the blade and the ganja its only visable in a couple of places and is incredibly thin my camera wont zoom in close enough to catch it properly... strange but interesting ![]() Last edited by capt.smash; 14th March 2005 at 12:06 AM. |
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Germany
Posts: 17
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Hello Capt. Smash,
its not only the corrosion but also the incomplete greneng and the blade is to narrow. It could be reshaped. This has been done many times to rise the prices in Bali and even more in Jawa. The blade itself is older but reshaped. Up to now there has been almost no research about the age of Balinese kerisses. If somebody telling you the age of a Balinese keris its always pure speculation. Even to tell about where it comes from (Southbali or Northbali) is difficult and in Bali almost everythings is forgotten. Last edited by empu kumis; 14th March 2005 at 09:12 PM. |
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Devon ,England
Posts: 80
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After some TLC and a visit to doctor arsenic....nice pamor in my opinion
![]() Last edited by capt.smash; 17th March 2005 at 03:33 PM. |
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,209
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Did you that by yourself??? The result is great !!! Next step is restoring the gold part and if possible a good dress for this fellow.
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 327
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Looks very good Captain, as some of your past posts show questions about etching, tell us about your experiances to date.
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Devon ,England
Posts: 80
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HI guys, Henk yes i did it myself
![]() ![]() Hi Bill i have been building up to this kind of project for some time and just as i was ready this blade fell into my lap as if it was meant to be ![]() ![]() The hardest part was prapareing/restoreing the blade.As you can see from the pics it was in bad shape with lots of corosion, rust ,scratches and pitting along the blade[the pamor not visable in a few plces], fortunately most of the pitting was only very shallow and i spent a day and a half of intermitant sanding with 6 grades of sandpaper [the type used in praparing car bodywork] starting with p100 to remove the surface material on both sides to a point where the pittingwas minimal and i could put a polish on the blade[aproximately quarter of a milimeter off both sides but im guessing there]this was the hardest part becuase i had to draw a line between a good surface and changeing the shape /lines of the blade witch i didnt want to do.After this i then gradualy went down in courseness of sandpaper p180,p320,p400,p800,p1500 till it was in a position to be easily polished. Some of our more traditional keris lovers may want to look away now ![]() In all i probaly removed about 3 quarters of a mill,s worth of material from the blade ,amazeing the difrence it has made and with no detremental afects on the strength of the blade. ![]() Make what you will of it,any coments welcome ![]() sorry about the grammar ![]() Last edited by capt.smash; 17th March 2005 at 08:08 PM. |
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#7 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Kuala Lumpur
Posts: 368
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You're the man Capt., believe me you're the man. To me, that metal that makes your keris and the type of pamor is almost impossible to etch; except for the Javaneese specialist. For amature collector to etch a keris like that is SUPERB!! I've used natural realgar, and the result is ok on several kerisses only, that is keris with a kinda porous metal. With kerisses like yours, its almost impossible for me to etch. And yet, you've done it. Perhaps i should use purer realgar.
![]() ![]() Can u please explain regarding opening the steel grain using sulphuric acid? What does it do to the grain structure? |
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