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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,235
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Lot of questions and answers. thanks in advance.
- The wrapping of the sheath is intact, I will try to make some pictures in focus. ![]() - The hilt and pendokok/selut are completely tight on the blade, no movement at all. considering the material of the hilt I am somewhat reluctant to try and get it loose. any suggestions ? - the selut looks like solid gold, and the the mountings on the scabbard maybe gold on silver. I will go and see a goldsmith to be sure on that. - as for the composite suggestion. it might be, but than before 1940. and certainly not with the poorest of materials. |
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#2 | |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,255
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Hello Willem,
Congrats! Quote:
There's a good chance that the blade is still fixed with resin: Carefully heating the base of the blade and gently trying to turn the hilt will probably allow you to remove the hilt. Go slowly - if it doesn't move, let it cool down and try repeated heating cycles. This also works if the pesi sticks to the hilt due to corrosion (rust may crack the hilt in the long run and it would be preferable to clean the pesi). However, since this piece has been in a collection for a long time (and probably not deteriorated any further since WW2) it may be questionable wether there's any real need for restoration. OTOH, it would be nice to close the gap between pendokok and blade if the hole in the hilt is long enough to completely cover the pesi. If the pesi is "too long," this would seem to be a safe sign for a composite piece. Sharial, are you sure that the hilt is not from Sulawesi? Regards, Kai |
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#3 | ||
Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Singapore
Posts: 1,248
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![]() Quote:
![]() Quote:
![]() Kind Regards, Shahrial Last edited by Alam Shah; 26th July 2007 at 10:15 AM. |
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#4 |
Keris forum moderator
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 7,218
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I would have leaned towards Sulawesi in describing this hilt as well...but then nailing down the origins of various Bugis forms is certainly not my strong suit. Rather than say it may be this or that it would certainly be helpful to those of us who struggle with these identifications to qualify one's opinion with some reasoning (i.e. the way the hilt curves here implies this or the way it is carved there implies that). Of course, better pictures will no doubt help these qualified assessments.
The qualities that determine Bugis sheath origin are much more vague for me than the for hilts. I know Shahrial and Kai Wee have touched on this subject before, but for the most part i still find myself guessing. ![]() Willem, better picture sure would help. I get the feeling that your camera's color balance might be off a bit, since i wouldn't have thought the pendokok was gold at first. Check to see that you are set for the right white balance. If you camera only has auto white balance try shooting on a day when there is brighter light. If you are having problems holding the camera steady try using a tripod. You probably shouldn't try to hand-hold exposures slower that 1/60 of a second. Also know the limitations of your camera. It looks as though you may have taken some pictures that are closer that the camera is able to focus. If so it would be better to back off a bit and then enlarge the photo somewhat in post production by cropping. ![]() |
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,209
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There are different ways to remove the ukiran and those methods are described in the forum before.
The first one is putting the keris in the furnace and heat the blade and ukiran. Control it well and try gently to turn off the ukiran. Another method is to heat the blade with a candle just at the base beneath the gonjo. That will warm up the pesi. Glue or resin will become soft again and release the ukiran. |
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,235
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Thanks Kai and Alam Shah for the compliments.
I will try to (very) gently heat the blade and see is some movement is achieved. also indeed to remove rust from the peksi, otherwise in time the rust will surely crack the hilt. I only know elefant from hippo ivory, so sea cow did not pass my mind yet. Could well be Sea Cow indeed. enclosed maybe a better picture of the hilt. |
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#7 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 132
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I am infact much fascinated by the pamor (raja abala raja). This is unique and rare pamor for a bugis at least.
About the ivory, what is needed is to observe the grain lines. Couldn't see much from the pictures. |
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#8 |
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 7,015
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I would caution against putting the blade and hilt into a furnace or oven, and even against putting the blade into a furnace or oven, with the hilt outside the heat.
Heating the base of the blade is the usual method to remove a hilt. A candle or small kerosene lamp is safe, I use a propane torch, but I would not recommend this to anybody who has not had a lot of experience in the use of propane torches. If you hold the blade a few inches down from where the heat is applied to the blade you will easily know when you have heated sufficiently. Line the jaws of a vice with plenty of newspaper and place the blade into the vice sideways.As already recommended, reheat and try again if you do not succeed the first time, however, you must be aware of the risk that if the tang is heavily rusted, it is possible to break the tang in attempts to remove it, no matter how gentle those attempts may be. |
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#9 | |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,255
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Hello Sharial,
Quote:
Regards, Kai |
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#10 | |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Singapore
Posts: 1,248
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![]() Quote:
From pic #1 & #2, from the upright position... I initially thought that it had a 60 degree 'bow', that was what made me suggested Sumatra... However, upon looking closely again... pic #3 and #6 shows the lower "bow", and flat balong at the back. The head area is 'fatter' with a 'droopy' chin, which leans towards Sulawesi... my mistake. ![]() ![]() |
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#11 |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,235
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We are getting there slowely.
![]() I have some better ![]() Please note the very small notch on the top, that seems to be worn of in time. I received pictures from a forumite of spermwhale tooth objects that were discoloured towards brown/brownish (thanks!). Looks a bit like this hilt. But this hilt has several pieces that almost look like wood on the top and left side. Nothing I have ever seen before. |
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#12 |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,235
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some close close ups of the hilt. maybe gives a clue on the material.
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#13 |
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Singapore
Posts: 1,248
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Thanks for the new photos. From pic #1 and #4, it seems that the sheath is not original for the blade. Previously the sheath was home to a thicker blade, imho.
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#14 |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,235
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Dear Alam,
Indeed the sheath is somewhat wider that the blade. However the blade fits rather nicely, does not sink to low or remains to high in the sheath. than with the marine ivory hilt (?) and gold / goldplated bits and pieces and a provenance from the previous owner. my best keris by far. So I am quite happy all together. ![]() ![]() Ps. the hilt, is that a 100% bugis now ? |
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