Another Moro Kris for comment!

[kai]

Hello Maurice,

The length of the blade is 59 cm.

A bit over 23 inches.

I'd love to hear wether others would place this as Maguindanao.

The seller told me it was 19th century (but you could be right ofcourse).

Even sellers who know/follow Cato's classification tend to be generous and a pre-1930 blade is often referred to as 19th century...

The line of separation of the gangya as well as the file work make me think 1900-1930 as most likely period. I can't positively exclude a late 19th century origin though. Wether a blade got forged a few years before or after that turn of the century doesn't make a decisive difference regarding craftmanship IME. There are fairly "basic" mid 19th century blades and excellent early 20th century blades... IMVHO one always has to evaluate the craftmanship of any given kris (if desired) rather than going by any classification criteria.

I noticed the blade screams for an etch, but I have to try finding out what is the best way of etching the blade. I am not familiar with that. Maybe when you have some time left you sent me an email how to do it step for step, and what time it takes.

You can do what you're used from Indonesian blades - short of Warangan, that is.

Here a short exposition of my basic routine (some info added for less experienced readers but far from comprehensive - please ask questions if not 100% sure!):

I start with any cleaning needed (fruit juice or vinegar), followed by any polishing (by hand) if needed. Wrap hilt with plastic foil for protection or, preferably (if possible), remove hilt.

Degrease thoroughly (important for getting an even etch); heat vinegar and blade and apply generously (careful: Moro blades like to take a bite!). Stop if the staining looks nice. Wipe off the vinegar with an oiled cloth and heat the blade to boiling temperature (not much higher!) for a few minutes - this ascertains that no residual vinegar/water is left on the blade nor in any crevices of the steel (to avoid ongoing corrosion). Be careful since this may be hot enough to losen the resin attaching the hilt if you haven't choosen to remove the blade to begin with (which greatly helps to ease things but can be unpossible without ruining old grip wraps which would be a shame).

Finally, oil the blade (let it "dry," wipe off excess oil) and/or wax the blade as preferred.

It's not rare that you can see some pattern but can't get it nicely visible (if the blade got polished with power tools, it's not rare to see no pattern to speak of at all). A few rounds of gentle polishing and repeated etching can do wonders in those cases...

Regards,
Kai