Tulwar scabbard

Pukka Bundook · 27th March 2007, 02:17 PM

Dave,
There's not much to add to what you have already deduced about making a scabbard.
In fact, that's about exactly what I did.!.........
Except I drew around blade on one piece of wood, as they'd fit inside each other's curve, if you get mi drift!

Only thing to remember is to flip the blade over before you draw 'round it the second time!!
With the 'troughs' cut, I lay the blade in the cut-out troughs, and tried "drawing" it, watching for any area it would 'ride up' out of the channel when drawn,, then cut out tight spots.
Once I had it cut out and clamped together, and had clearance for blade to draw, I cut out the out-side lines very close to finished size.
This was to avoid cutting through the walls when finishing.

Also, put a witness mark across both halves when everything fits together right, before gluing.

When glued, I greased the blade a bit so it wouldn't stick, and ran it in and out, to make sure no glue globs would set and interfere with sword passage.
I kept doing this now and again, as glue dried.

Only other thing, on a lot of wood, when you've "stabbed in" with the chisel on your initial pencil line, it's often Much easier to cut with chisel across the grain, to-wards your initial stab in cut.
(Rather than trying to run chisel down the grain, where the grain tends to have a mind of its own!!)
Thats all I know about it.........
Though I'm sure there are chaps here that know a whole lot more!!

Re the canvas or cotton, before velvet, You probabnly know a lot more about it than I do.
On this one, the bit of rotton velvet that had survived, was glued straight to the wood, overlapped and not stitched in place at all.

Can you tell me what the normal application process was?

Thanks Dave,

Richard.

27th March 2007, 02:17 PM	#20
Pukka Bundook Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 803	Dave, There's not much to add to what you have already deduced about making a scabbard. In fact, that's about exactly what I did.!......... Except I drew around blade on one piece of wood, as they'd fit inside each other's curve, if you get mi drift! Only thing to remember is to flip the blade over before you draw 'round it the second time!! With the 'troughs' cut, I lay the blade in the cut-out troughs, and tried "drawing" it, watching for any area it would 'ride up' out of the channel when drawn,, then cut out tight spots. Once I had it cut out and clamped together, and had clearance for blade to draw, I cut out the out-side lines very close to finished size. This was to avoid cutting through the walls when finishing. Also, put a witness mark across both halves when everything fits together right, before gluing. When glued, I greased the blade a bit so it wouldn't stick, and ran it in and out, to make sure no glue globs would set and interfere with sword passage. I kept doing this now and again, as glue dried. Only other thing, on a lot of wood, when you've "stabbed in" with the chisel on your initial pencil line, it's often Much easier to cut with chisel across the grain, to-wards your initial stab in cut. (Rather than trying to run chisel down the grain, where the grain tends to have a mind of its own!!) Thats all I know about it......... Though I'm sure there are chaps here that know a whole lot more!! Re the canvas or cotton, before velvet, You probabnly know a lot more about it than I do. On this one, the bit of rotton velvet that had survived, was glued straight to the wood, overlapped and not stitched in place at all. Can you tell me what the normal application process was? Thanks Dave, Richard.