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4th January 2007, 02:08 PM
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#1 |
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Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,365
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Hi Alan,
You have a very nice Gentry quality sword.  The pommel is quite unusual; is there a piece broken off? The blade of your sword appears to have a contrasting core or inlay running down the center of the blade. From the appearance of this piece the hilt and wrap are old. The Asang-asang (blade clamps) are interesting in that one appears to be made of Swaasa alloy. Rick |
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4th January 2007, 08:39 PM
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,255
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Hello Alan,
I'm glad you didn't sold this kris - seems to be a really, really nice kalis seko from Sulu! That must be a twist core blade (search this forum for more info and pics of other pieces). The blade needs to be slightly etched to make the pattern more easily visible (apparently polished off by an misinformed US veteran as is often the case with war souvenirs); please consider to let this do by someone like Battara if you don't feel comfortable with a DIY approach. It would be very interesting to test those different metals/alloys utilized in the fittings! I wouldn't be surprised if the asang-asang are made from swaasa - look more like copper to me though. Regards, Kai |
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4th January 2007, 08:49 PM
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Italia
Posts: 1,243
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Beautiful
!! Is the pommel carved from hornbill? See this other thread http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=638 |
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4th January 2007, 09:01 PM
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#4 | |
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Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The Aussie Bush
Posts: 4,469
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Flavio:
I believe that is a striped wood called banati, which is used quite often for pommels on barung, kris, kampilan, etc. It's a very desirable and expensive wood among moro communities. Ian. Quote:
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5th January 2007, 04:43 PM
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#5 | |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Italia
Posts: 1,243
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Quote:
 Yes, i see now that the top piece of the pommel is a piece of ivory (is right?  ) glued to the banati part, sorry
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6th January 2007, 10:28 PM
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#6 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 164
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If I decide to try to etch this blade myself , should I try polishing it better first to remove the old polish lines and swirls or should I just do the etching?
Any toughts on the best way a total novice should atempt to etch such a fine sword would be appreciated.Also do I need to worry about solution on the blade clamps? I am not going to attempt anything until I feel I have the right info to do it Thanks Last edited by Alan62; 6th January 2007 at 10:40 PM. |
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8th January 2007, 03:56 PM
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#7 |
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EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,323
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NO I don't think any polishing is needed (based on what I can see in the pictures). The fastest way may be using ferrous cloride mixed with water. However, it is highly corrosive and the old way (and safest way) is to use heated citrus juice and vinegar (heat the blade too). On the clamps, steel wool (0000) would do fine on these particular ones (do it gently).
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4th January 2007, 11:02 PM
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#8 | |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 164
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Quote:
I believe there is a break in the ivory part it seems it may have had 2 little curls instead of the one. Thank You everyone for all the info. Can someone tell me more about the spot or dot near the point ,it only has the one that appears to go all the way thru the blade. Thanks again |
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5th January 2007, 12:20 AM
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#9 |
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EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,323
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I don't know the meaning of the dot in the blade, although it looks like copper, like the asang-ansang (though only testing will tell for sure - something I can also do).
Very nice puppy! (woof!  )
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5th January 2007, 02:39 AM
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 164
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Just an FYI It is 25.5 inches long overall and the blade is 20.5 inches from the tip to the center of the grip
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