GREAT RUST REMOVAL process.

Ian · 19th September 2006, 12:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tom hyle

what's a langgai?

See here Tom.
http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2060

utami · 21st September 2006, 05:15 AM

Thanks alot bill and other fellows for sharing this tip

Bill, do you have some picture of the mandau before using your tip

i would like to see comparation before and after rust removal.

Regarding the pienapple rust removal, we usually used the Pineapples/ Pineapples skin to remove hard rust. Just rubbed the rusted area with Pineapples skin couple of times until the rust fade away.

just my 2 cent

The Double D · 8th February 2007, 07:33 PM

We are going to find out how good the pineapple method is this weekend.

I got this iklwa today and it has some serious rust issues.

So here are the before pictures.

I'll post the after later...

Lew · 8th February 2007, 07:49 PM

DD

Good luck that spear has some serious scale

that needs removing you will need a wire brush to get that scale off first and then you can use the juice.

Lew

Tim Simmons · 8th February 2007, 08:29 PM

From what I can see in this thread. I think one has to try and differentiate between cleaning and etching. Is one cleaning to a parade standard or to achieve an aesthetic appearance of antiquity. Where the physical removal of rust is controlled by material, hand and eye/taste. The blades that look cleaned with acid or heavy chemical etching, are they really then the same as they were?

This is does depend on whether the original culture was in the habit of cleaning with acids.

The Double D · 9th February 2007, 03:46 PM

Tim which method would you then recomend to achieve an aesthetic appearance of antiquity of this nasty rusty Iklwa?

Norrmally I would fly at this with brass brush and oil followed 0000 steel wool and oil.

I just wanted to try a different method to see how it works.

Tim Simmons · 9th February 2007, 05:32 PM

Hi Douglas,

When I am faced with rust like this I use a brass or even a steel brush with oil to start with. Then from your local DIY store an assorted pack of abrasive paper for metal surfaces. Using finger tips, folded pieces of paper and lots of oil go through the grades. Also large lumps of course steel wool to get in awkward places or clean round sections. Wipe clean regularly to check on the progress. It is easy to work on small stubborn spots in circular movements. The end finish is up to you. In a couple of hours of careful work you should end up with a clean but old looking surface, there may still be dark stains on the blade but this is what I want to see and like. At the end I give the blade a good rubbing or polishing with the fine steel wool and shoe wax. Your spear does look a bit scary but I think a Saturday morning or afternoons work on this will end up with a nice looking spear that somebody would pay good money for. There is no real substitute for hard dirty and most often painful work. If the blade does not cut you, pieces of steel wool get into your fingers. Show us the before and after pics.

Bill M · 9th February 2007, 06:05 PM

http://www.theruststore.com/Evapo-Rust-C21.aspx

I am using this with great success on some less-than-fine pieces. The problem, as with all chemical rust removers is that it leave the metal a bit grey and then you need to lightly sand.

It also may clean too deep and get into the patina, but if you soak a short time and then wpie, you can control that.

It also shows hardened metal as much darker. Not a substitute for vinegar, lime, lemon, etc.

I made a good sword "soak tank" by capping one end of a three foot piece of PVC pipe and hanging it vertically.

I like WD-40 and 400 grit to begin with. Watch your fingers, especially with these bloodthirsty Moro weapons!

21st September 2006, 05:15 AM	#2
utami Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Java, Indonesia Posts: 49	Thanks alot bill and other fellows for sharing this tip Bill, do you have some picture of the mandau before using your tip i would like to see comparation before and after rust removal. Regarding the pienapple rust removal, we usually used the Pineapples/ Pineapples skin to remove hard rust. Just rubbed the rusted area with Pineapples skin couple of times until the rust fade away. just my 2 cent

8th February 2007, 07:33 PM	#3
The Double D Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: On the banks of Cut Bank Creek, Montana Posts: 189	We are going to find out how good the pineapple method is this weekend. I got this iklwa today and it has some serious rust issues. So here are the before pictures. I'll post the after later...

8th February 2007, 07:49 PM	#4
Lew (deceased) Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: East Coast USA Posts: 3,191	DD Good luck that spear has some serious scale that needs removing you will need a wire brush to get that scale off first and then you can use the juice. Lew

8th February 2007, 08:29 PM	#5
Tim Simmons Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: What is still UK Posts: 5,854	From what I can see in this thread. I think one has to try and differentiate between cleaning and etching. Is one cleaning to a parade standard or to achieve an aesthetic appearance of antiquity. Where the physical removal of rust is controlled by material, hand and eye/taste. The blades that look cleaned with acid or heavy chemical etching, are they really then the same as they were? This is does depend on whether the original culture was in the habit of cleaning with acids.

9th February 2007, 03:46 PM	#6
The Double D Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: On the banks of Cut Bank Creek, Montana Posts: 189	Tim which method would you then recomend to achieve an aesthetic appearance of antiquity of this nasty rusty Iklwa? Norrmally I would fly at this with brass brush and oil followed 0000 steel wool and oil. I just wanted to try a different method to see how it works.

9th February 2007, 05:32 PM	#7
Tim Simmons Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: What is still UK Posts: 5,854	Hi Douglas, When I am faced with rust like this I use a brass or even a steel brush with oil to start with. Then from your local DIY store an assorted pack of abrasive paper for metal surfaces. Using finger tips, folded pieces of paper and lots of oil go through the grades. Also large lumps of course steel wool to get in awkward places or clean round sections. Wipe clean regularly to check on the progress. It is easy to work on small stubborn spots in circular movements. The end finish is up to you. In a couple of hours of careful work you should end up with a clean but old looking surface, there may still be dark stains on the blade but this is what I want to see and like. At the end I give the blade a good rubbing or polishing with the fine steel wool and shoe wax. Your spear does look a bit scary but I think a Saturday morning or afternoons work on this will end up with a nice looking spear that somebody would pay good money for. There is no real substitute for hard dirty and most often painful work. If the blade does not cut you, pieces of steel wool get into your fingers. Show us the before and after pics.

9th February 2007, 06:05 PM	#8
Bill M Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: USA Georgia Posts: 1,599	http://www.theruststore.com/Evapo-Rust-C21.aspx I am using this with great success on some less-than-fine pieces. The problem, as with all chemical rust removers is that it leave the metal a bit grey and then you need to lightly sand. It also may clean too deep and get into the patina, but if you soak a short time and then wpie, you can control that. It also shows hardened metal as much darker. Not a substitute for vinegar, lime, lemon, etc. I made a good sword "soak tank" by capping one end of a three foot piece of PVC pipe and hanging it vertically. I like WD-40 and 400 grit to begin with. Watch your fingers, especially with these bloodthirsty Moro weapons!