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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 940
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Hey Smash Man, here's a link that Rasdan started on the subject that he posted photos of the stuff on. The photos don't seem to show anymore, but perhaps they can be restored or shown by again by Rasdan.
http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showth...light=Warangan ![]() Last edited by nechesh; 5th February 2005 at 01:51 AM. |
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 139
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Hi Captain,
You are bringing up a question which has been extensively discussed in previous thread and with a little bit of searching in the old forum threads you will find good answers, but to my recollection all the answers indicate that if you want a good result namely a clear opposition between the nickel and the steel of the kriss you have to utilize arsenic, which in our countries is really difficult to get. As I was living in Malaysia, I had the great chance of meeting several times Nik Rashidin Nik Hussein, a very talented wood sculptor, who was also a great kriss collector. Nik Din, as his nick name was, gave me the following formula, to achieve a decent staining,(if it is the right words) of the kriss blade : 10 of sulfur, 1 of salt, grind until it is very a fine powder, mix with rice water, dip the blade in the mixture for ½ a day, one day, 2 days it all depend of the circumstances, wash and oil. I did it several time with satisfactory results but you have to watch the progress. You therefore have to wash and clean the blade after 6 hours look carefully and decide how many additional hours you want to leave it and re-dip the blade in the mixture which will have turned black when in contact with the metal. Attached you will find 2 picturtes of a blade before and after treatment. Not very good picture !! sorry. The mixture is corrosive but slowly. Attached is a kriss panjang that I forged and treated. You can see how the mixture slowly has eaten up the blade and its ganja. It is a way to age a blade. Have fun ! Michel |
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Kuala Lumpur
Posts: 369
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Hi guys,
Heres the link to the thread: http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=10 Below are the pictures of the warangan in the above thread. ![]() |
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Devon ,England
Posts: 80
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Hi guys thanks for the replys and the pictures ......i have posted some pictures or realgar[arsenic sulfide]the red one ...and orpiment[arsenic trisulfide]the yellow,both of these are easily obtainable[ebay]
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Kuala Lumpur
Posts: 369
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Hi Capt,
From what i know, warangan is realgar. And yours looks much better with a higher arscenic sulphate content. Unfortunately i havent had the oportunity to use neither since arscenic is a controlled mineral in Malaysia. ![]() |
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Devon ,England
Posts: 80
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Hi Rasdan thanks that was the info i was after...incidentaly i have looked into Realgar and aparently it is an unstable mineral it eventualy alters to a diffrent mineral called pararealgar and after that to powder[it is recomended to keep it in the dark and out of direct sunlight as this causes the colour to fade]...i wonder if the specimen you had was mined and stored long enough for it to alter and lose some of its colour...i have no ideah if this afects the arsenic content or mabe im thinking that mabe they let it alter on purpose as this would make it easier to crush and powder.
Anyway im going to order some and give it a try and ill post my results. smashy ![]() |
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#7 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Devon ,England
Posts: 80
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HI guys i thaught id update this thread.After some experimentation i have discovred that Realgar [Arsenic sulfide] works very well once powdred[it crushes easily] and added with most citrus juice[i used grapefruit juice & also tried pineapple ]realgar is easily sourced as a mineral[ebay] so now everyone has the chance to have some fun and can have a go if they wish .
![]() I also tried orpiment[arsenic trisulfide]but found it hard to powder and didnt work as well. |
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