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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,118
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I have similar state remains of one very very like this. It's late period Ottoman military, and I have been told Ottoman Navy, in a revival style. They get stripped of their mounts because some idiots think they are more profitable as scrap silver.
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#2 | |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Room 101, Glos. UK
Posts: 4,215
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The cross-guard obviously has been removed at some point, the areas it covered on the grip and scabbard are apparent. Makes it more sashqa-like. The seam on the scabbard is very Ottoman. |
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Leiden, NL
Posts: 553
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Thanks for your input guys. I'd be interested in seeing pictures of yours, David!
Yeah, the scabbard stitching definitely looks Ottoman. Although FWIW, the other example I posted is listed as "Turkish-type Hungarian sabre from the 18th century" by the Ferenc Nadasdy Museum here. And yeah, it looks very shashka-esque without the guard. On a related note, see the image attached as to why I said the blade reminds me of that of some shashka blades (although obviously the tip is different). I think the closest one I've found in terms of what the guard would have probably looked like is this (leftmost) one: Interestingly though, that one looks like there is a rivet at the top, but I can see no indication that there was ever a rivet running through the grip scales or blade on mine. I like the look of it in spite of the missing bits and other blemishes, and it is my only Ottoman pistol gripped sword (I like this grip style and I'd love to one day own a nice pala, but for now that is outside my budget). Still very sharp, too. And it feels nice to hold except for the movement in the grip. Would be nice if I could somehow fasten those grip scales a bit so that I could handle it a bit more without them giving away in my hands, but I'm not sure how to do that without having to remove the rivets (which I'm not comfortable doing at this point). There is a sizeable gap between the scales and the blade, so I suppose it would be possible to inject some epoxy/pitch in there, but I don't want to accidentally ruin it with an ill-advised repair attempt. Any advice on how to accomplish this in a responsible way (if it is even possible), and on what kind of pitch to use would be appreciated. |
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,118
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Poor pics, but perhaps good enough.
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Leiden, NL
Posts: 553
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I like that fullering! I'm not seeing any rivets at all on your grip, which is interesting. Is that accurate or is it just that they don't stand out in the pictures? I wonder if that suggests that the guard was held in place solely by the pitch/friction.
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,118
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The fullering is what attracted me to it in the first place. The grip is secured by a well fitted "pin" in the pommel, that only goes partially through the horn scales on each side but transfixes a full tang. Rotation is prevented by the silver strapping round the full tang. A bit like the pic below.
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