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Old 2nd March 2022, 05:12 PM   #1
milandro
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I was asking a strictly metallurgical question limited to the use of gun blue, as I stated in post 1
never mind, thanks
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Old 2nd March 2022, 07:51 PM   #2
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I was asking a strictly metallurgical question limited to the use of gun blue, as I stated in post 1
never mind, thanks
Well Milandro, we are a forum of keris collectors, not metallurgists. You can't expect to ask a question like this without some head scratching on our part.
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Old 2nd March 2022, 10:03 PM   #3
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Purely metallurgical?

OK.

I own & use a number of firearms, and have owned rifles for seventy odd years and during that course of time I have needed to touch up firearm bluing more times than I can remember.

In my experience cold blue, I normally use Birchwood Casey, will only act on ferric material, it will not darken nickel plating, thus I do not believe it will darken pure nickel on a keris blade.

However, an artist friend tells me that nitric acid @ 50% dilution will darken nickel, you need to get the nickel a bit warm, +/-50C, soak the nickel for up to 30 seconds. She is an artist, and she does SOAK the material in the dilute nitric acid, not paint it on.

Frankly I would not touch nitric acid with a 40 foot pole, it is very nasty stuff, and my belief is that it would be impossible to isolate the effect of the acid so that it only touched the nickel in the blade leaving the ferric material untouched. I think the fumes alone would be sufficient to adversely affect the rest of the blade finish.

To be clear:- I am not recommending the use of nitric acid for anything, least of all to attempt to alter the appearance of this blade under discussion.
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Old 2nd March 2022, 10:17 PM   #4
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thank you for your, to my point, answer, after looking at several videos on Youtube , and reading this, I’ve decided against it.
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Old 2nd March 2022, 11:04 PM   #5
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Very wise I think.
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Old 4th March 2022, 05:11 PM   #6
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while I thank you again for your to-the-point answer ( and by the way , methinks that there are plenty of metallurgic points made in several threads that I’ve read, as for example about on how to etch blades ) I have learned to appreciate and perhaps even love this blade.

I like the way the light catches and reflects on this spot, it goes from light to deep dark, as you move the kris creating a very vivid effect.

Intended or not it lives now, and it lives with me. I have abandoned any retouching desire. there is , of course, no account for taste and I have no doubt that people will disagree
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Old 5th March 2022, 03:15 PM   #7
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( and by the way , methinks that there are plenty of metallurgic points made in several threads that I’ve read, as for example about on how to etch blades )
I believe that you may have misinterpreted what i was saying in regards to "head scratching". Of course we have discussed metallurgic points in many threads on this forum. And i wasn't suggesting that no one could help answer your question here (and Alan Maisey is probably the most well informed amongst us to do so). The head scratching i was referring to is why you would want to cover this area of nickel up in the first place. Especially if it was accidental instead of intentional. Accidental pamors in keris would be considered "Acts of God". Not something i would image any Indonesian keris owner would choose to mess with.
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