![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
![]() |
#4 | |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,255
|
![]()
Hello Kamal,
Quote:
The first step should always be to evaluate if restoration really makes sense: Full cleaning of a heavily pitted blade may result in major loss of material and leave just a sponge-like matrix of extant metal. In some cases it may be preferable to leave it in a relic state and only try to stabilize to avoid further deterioration. Since you already went ahead with partial de-rusting, there is little reason not to try to grind the blade, even with coarser grades of sandpaper. Any work with sandpaper will (partially or fully) remove patina and result in "white" metal while the pitted areas won't be affected; if you intend to keep the patinated surface, steel wool will be preferable (mainly 0000, be careful when using coarser grades; patience and lots of elbow grease needed, too); spots with stubborn rust may need dedicated treatment. If you soak the blade in vinegar, fruit juice, or commercial rust removers, you'll also remove the rust from the pitted areas resulting in a surface with lots of "craters" - this can look pretty horrible and should be very carefully evaluated before starting such an approach: It takes quite a lot of effort to completely remove the rust - may help long-term preservation (of the remaining metal) though. Regards, Kai |
|
![]() |
![]() |
|
|