What do you use to polish your....Silver :) Also what was used historically? & wax?

Machetero · 3rd March 2017, 11:13 AM

Many Malaysian Antique dealers I've met swear by this Chinese Face powder called Sam Fong Hoi Tong.
It's got chalk in it so its kind of abrasive (on a microscopic level), but it's pretty authentic and cool.
When I don't use the powder i just rub silver with a cloth and some mineral oil.

Here's a picture of the box

sfenoid13 · 17th March 2017, 08:56 PM

I have been using NEVR-DULL for all my swords for cleaning and polishing purposes. It works like magic. After cleaning them with this I apply WD40. Results are great (i have tried may other things as well but this combo works best).

rickystl · 17th March 2017, 11:35 PM

Thanks guys for the additional methods. Much appreciated.
Rick.

Ibrahiim al Balooshi · 23rd March 2017, 08:07 PM

Dont forget Colgate toothpaste is excellent for cleaning silver !!!

Battara · 24th March 2017, 02:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ibrahiim al Balooshi

Dont forget Colgate toothpaste is excellent for cleaning silver !!!

Don't use it on ivory though!

Ibrahiim al Balooshi · 26th March 2017, 09:44 AM

Post 26 of the Omani Khanjar indicates Quote" Funnily enough cleaning khanjars is not as difficult as it seems ~ The quickest way is with a brass brush ! which sounds aggressive but its not as the brass bristles which are softer than silver only takes away the silver oxidation and polishes the silver without a scratch. See http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showth...omani+khanjars

Sapun Rita.
The silversmith uses an enhanced method for example on stitched silver belts which are first cleaned in a solution called "sapun rita" (sapun means soap..see next para for how this is prepared) a smooth flat headed hammer is pressed firmly onto the silver decoration and pushed along the belt with moderate force...Burnished ... Cleaning the khanjar is a peculiar operation which sounds a bit majical ~

Sapun Rita is prepared by setting fire to a rita berry which when dropped into water disolves immediately forming a burnishing solution..into which the khanjar is dipped then brushed vigourously and given the mallet press treatment as above. It is a long lasting polish technique suited to filigree and needleworked silver stitching on Khanjar scabbard and belt.

Regards,
Ibrahiim al Balooshi.

Tatyana Dianova · 28th March 2017, 08:42 AM

I have cleaned hundreds of old tarnished silver pieces and I have tried almost all known methods except the exotic ones.
For lightly tarnished pieces the polishing cloth is the best.
For heavily tarnished pieces with the heavy black and brown patina which is not affected by the polishing cloth one may try a silver foam. But I find it pretty stinky, bad for hands and environment, and I find in this case the baking soda (bicarbonate of soda) the best solution which I apply with a wet cloth. I use the coarsest and the cheapest one which I buy at the local Russian shop and which is made in Belarus. The local German baking soda is much finer and works not as good. The piece has to be wiped afterwards with a wet cloth or washed if possible in a fresh water, and then wiped dry. The soda/foam residue if left in relief should be removed with a dry toothbrush. Afterwards the piece should be polished with a polishing cloth. As the end result one gets a great contrast between the raised shiny surface and the matt dark depressions.
For cleaning filigree pieces the toothpaste and the toothbrush are the best, but one should keep in mind that using the toothbrush will clean all the dark depressions as well which can lead to an expressionless result…
If the patina was so heavy that it has damaged the surface like the rust on steel and the patina is affected neither by silver foam nor the baking soda, I take 0000 steel wool, and the polishing cloth afterwards. If there is a hard green residue in depressions one should use a brass brush for this area.
Preserving the shiny finish on the pieces is a problem. The thick wax layer is matt and it fills in the depressions. If the wax layer is thin the piece still darkens. I have tried the modern nano finish and it works well but it is very expensive. The easiest way is to keep the smaller jewelry pieces in a closed plastic bags. And for larger pieces like the swords on display use a polishing cloth again and again when needed.

3rd March 2017, 11:13 AM	#1
Machetero Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Stockholm, Sweden Posts: 12	Sam Fong Hoi Tong Powder Many Malaysian Antique dealers I've met swear by this Chinese Face powder called Sam Fong Hoi Tong. It's got chalk in it so its kind of abrasive (on a microscopic level), but it's pretty authentic and cool. When I don't use the powder i just rub silver with a cloth and some mineral oil. Here's a picture of the box Attached Images Last edited by Robert; 3rd March 2017 at 06:21 PM.

17th March 2017, 08:56 PM	#2
sfenoid13 Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Posts: 134	I have been using NEVR-DULL for all my swords for cleaning and polishing purposes. It works like magic. After cleaning them with this I apply WD40. Results are great (i have tried may other things as well but this combo works best). Attached Images

17th March 2017, 11:35 PM	#3
rickystl Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: St. Louis, MO area. Posts: 1,630	Thanks guys for the additional methods. Much appreciated. Rick.

23rd March 2017, 08:07 PM	#4
Ibrahiim al Balooshi Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Buraimi Oman, on the border with the UAE Posts: 4,408	Dont forget Colgate toothpaste is excellent for cleaning silver !!!

26th March 2017, 09:44 AM	#6
Ibrahiim al Balooshi Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Buraimi Oman, on the border with the UAE Posts: 4,408	Post 26 of the Omani Khanjar indicates Quote" Funnily enough cleaning khanjars is not as difficult as it seems ~ The quickest way is with a brass brush ! which sounds aggressive but its not as the brass bristles which are softer than silver only takes away the silver oxidation and polishes the silver without a scratch. See http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showth...omani+khanjars Sapun Rita. The silversmith uses an enhanced method for example on stitched silver belts which are first cleaned in a solution called "sapun rita" (sapun means soap..see next para for how this is prepared) a smooth flat headed hammer is pressed firmly onto the silver decoration and pushed along the belt with moderate force...Burnished ... Cleaning the khanjar is a peculiar operation which sounds a bit majical ~ Sapun Rita is prepared by setting fire to a rita berry which when dropped into water disolves immediately forming a burnishing solution..into which the khanjar is dipped then brushed vigourously and given the mallet press treatment as above. It is a long lasting polish technique suited to filigree and needleworked silver stitching on Khanjar scabbard and belt. Regards, Ibrahiim al Balooshi.

28th March 2017, 08:42 AM	#7
Tatyana Dianova Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 735	I have cleaned hundreds of old tarnished silver pieces and I have tried almost all known methods except the exotic ones. For lightly tarnished pieces the polishing cloth is the best. For heavily tarnished pieces with the heavy black and brown patina which is not affected by the polishing cloth one may try a silver foam. But I find it pretty stinky, bad for hands and environment, and I find in this case the baking soda (bicarbonate of soda) the best solution which I apply with a wet cloth. I use the coarsest and the cheapest one which I buy at the local Russian shop and which is made in Belarus. The local German baking soda is much finer and works not as good. The piece has to be wiped afterwards with a wet cloth or washed if possible in a fresh water, and then wiped dry. The soda/foam residue if left in relief should be removed with a dry toothbrush. Afterwards the piece should be polished with a polishing cloth. As the end result one gets a great contrast between the raised shiny surface and the matt dark depressions. For cleaning filigree pieces the toothpaste and the toothbrush are the best, but one should keep in mind that using the toothbrush will clean all the dark depressions as well which can lead to an expressionless result… If the patina was so heavy that it has damaged the surface like the rust on steel and the patina is affected neither by silver foam nor the baking soda, I take 0000 steel wool, and the polishing cloth afterwards. If there is a hard green residue in depressions one should use a brass brush for this area. Preserving the shiny finish on the pieces is a problem. The thick wax layer is matt and it fills in the depressions. If the wax layer is thin the piece still darkens. I have tried the modern nano finish and it works well but it is very expensive. The easiest way is to keep the smaller jewelry pieces in a closed plastic bags. And for larger pieces like the swords on display use a polishing cloth again and again when needed.