Ethnographic Arms & Armour
 

Go Back   Ethnographic Arms & Armour > Discussion Forums > Ethnographic Weapons
FAQ Calendar Today's Posts Search

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 28th February 2017, 06:00 PM   #1
Nathaniel
Member
 
Nathaniel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 865
Default

Thanks Ibrahiim I like hearing about traditional silver cleaning methods and hope that a few more members will chime in about this not just modern products.

Roland, thank you very much for the detailed information.

I just remembered too an earlier discussion:

http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showpo...8&postcount=13
Nathaniel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 28th February 2017, 06:34 PM   #2
Roland_M
Member
 
Roland_M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Germany
Posts: 525
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nathaniel
Roland, thank you very much for the detailed information.

I just remembered too an earlier discussion:
Thank you Nathaniel,

if you are interested in the German wax (Hartmann-Pflege) I mentioned, send me a pm, I can order it for you, it is not very expensive and for leather and wood imho better than Renaissance wax, which I also tried out. I think Renaissance wax is too stiff.

Alan Maiseys tip for wood is awesome! First polish the wood with metal polish (Gundelputz), which gives you a mirror finish and brings out every detail in the wood, you will be surprised. After that apply a little bit of the german wax. This produces an amazing natural finish and is very good for the wood.


Roland
Roland_M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2nd March 2017, 01:29 AM   #3
Nathaniel
Member
 
Nathaniel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 865
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roland_M
Thank you Nathaniel,

if you are interested in the German wax (Hartmann-Pflege) I mentioned, send me a pm, I can order it for you, it is not very expensive and for leather and wood imho better than Renaissance wax, which I also tried out. I think Renaissance wax is too stiff.

Alan Maiseys tip for wood is awesome! First polish the wood with metal polish (Gundelputz), which gives you a mirror finish and brings out every detail in the wood, you will be surprised. After that apply a little bit of the german wax. This produces an amazing natural finish and is very good for the wood.


Roland

Many Thank Roland for passing on Alan's tip for wood.

That is interesting to hear about Gundelputz having no abrasives. I'm thinking about your kind offer. Thank you Roland.

Last edited by Nathaniel; 2nd March 2017 at 03:11 AM.
Nathaniel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2nd March 2017, 01:42 AM   #4
Nathaniel
Member
 
Nathaniel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 865
Default

Roland, have you heard of Metarex polishing cloth? It seems to be a German product. A professional conservator recommended it. He said his family (multi generational art conservators) had used Metarex for many years. At present it seems to be marketed for polishing silver frets of guitars and other musical instruments hardware.
Attached Images
  
Nathaniel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2nd March 2017, 01:53 AM   #5
Nathaniel
Member
 
Nathaniel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 865
Default

An antique dealer (non weapons) had told me that he uses Hagerty Silver Foam.
Attached Images
 
Nathaniel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2nd March 2017, 02:40 AM   #6
Nathaniel
Member
 
Nathaniel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 865
Default

I had mentioned that in Thailand and other south east Asian countries they use Tamarid traditionally for silver polish. I thought I would post a picture to show a people who may not know what a Tamarind is. It's a very delicious fruit as well
Attached Images
 
Nathaniel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2nd March 2017, 02:44 AM   #7
A. G. Maisey
Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 6,992
Default

Did I say that Roland?

I must have been drunk at the time.

For unfinished wood I take it to a fine garnet paper, probably about 800 is as fine as you'd want to go, then raise the grain with steam, polish with 00 steel wool, when the grain won't raise any more, polish with 0000.

What you do after that depends a bit on what sort of finish you want, and on the wood itself. You might want to steam it again after the first polish with 0000, and then do another 0000 polish, or more than one, or you might want to apply your finish and cut back between coats with 00 and 0000, there are number of ways you can go.

If the end finish is too bright you can take some of gloss out of it with 0000.

If restoring a previous varnish or french polish finish, car polish + gum turpentine will clean it up nicely, and then use a good quality furniture wax.

Depending on what the existing finish looks like, you might like to try a good furniture oil, like Sheraton, and when it has thoroughly dried, then use a good quality furniture wax.

A quick easy finish on new wood is something like Danish oil.

If you want to use a traditional french polish, you must remember to use the pad in a figure eight pattern, and you might need anything up to 20 coats.
A. G. Maisey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2nd March 2017, 03:12 AM   #8
Nathaniel
Member
 
Nathaniel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 865
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by A. G. Maisey
Did I say that Roland?

I must have been drunk at the time.

For unfinished wood I take it to a fine garnet paper, probably about 800 is as fine as you'd want to go, then raise the grain with steam, polish with 00 steel wool, when the grain won't raise any more, polish with 0000.

What you do after that depends a bit on what sort of finish you want, and on the wood itself. You might want to steam it again after the first polish with 0000, and then do another 0000 polish, or more than one, or you might want to apply your finish and cut back between coats with 00 and 0000, there are number of ways you can go.

If the end finish is too bright you can take some of gloss out of it with 0000.

If restoring a previous varnish or french polish finish, car polish + gum turpentine will clean it up nicely, and then use a good quality furniture wax.

Depending on what the existing finish looks like, you might like to try a good furniture oil, like Sheraton, and when it has thoroughly dried, then use a good quality furniture wax.

A quick easy finish on new wood is something like Danish oil.

If you want to use a traditional french polish, you must remember to use the pad in a figure eight pattern, and you might need anything up to 20 coats.
Thanks Alan for the detailed guide!
Nathaniel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2nd March 2017, 03:40 AM   #9
Battara
EAAF Staff
 
Battara's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,272
Default

The problem with products on the market for silver is that if it is a chemical dip then it will eat into the surface of the silver.

If it is a cloth, yes it will produce micro-scratches.

But anything that takes the sulfur oxide off silver will leave some kind of mark on the silver.

Personally, I also make jewelry as well as restoring antique weaponry. I use the cloth as the final end of polishing and cleaning. This is a standard practice in jewelry making, and thus I also use this on silver fittings on weaponry (as well as any silver).

And don't forget that in reality, cleaning is polishing, just on a lighter level.
Battara is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 07:13 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Posts are regarded as being copyrighted by their authors and the act of posting material is deemed to be a granting of an irrevocable nonexclusive license for display here.