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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,273
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Yes, a Minang Keris. Greneng and whole blade base is typically Minang.
Hilt doesn't look so bad. The light colour is a good sign, because the newer ones are almost always chemically treated to enhance the colours. Would let it as it is, except the blade rust. It is a honest, good specimen of its kind. Nice to have such more elaborated crosspiece of sheath. Buntut (the end peace of sheath stem) being made from different material (I mean also metal of different colours as in this case) is not unusual with this type, actually it is quite often seen, also Pendokok corresponding with Buntut. It is a pure speculation, yet I suppose the sleeve that once covered the back of Gonjo was the same colour as Pendokok. Never have seen an old silver one. Last edited by Gustav; 28th July 2016 at 05:06 PM. |
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#2 | |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
Posts: 9,165
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And yes, please care the blade! ![]() ![]() Regards, Detlef |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,740
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I agree with the opinions from the other members, but would just like to add that from the pics the pendokok and buntut look to be made from gilt silver, and the hilt has a vague cockatoo shape indeed (attributed to Jambi).
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
Posts: 9,165
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Agree with Kai and Jean, this form of hilt is attributed to Jambi.
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 5,503
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Here are the pics you have requested. I looked carefully at the selut and buntut: you might have been correct, it may indeed be gilt silver. Need to take them to a jeweler. There are two holes in the gonjo, one at each end and there might have been another, currently plugged in, in the middle. The big hole in the gonjo is lined up with some non-ferrous metal.
Any additional insights? |
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
Posts: 9,165
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Hello Ariel,
thank you for the additional pictures. I think the gonjo was once covered with a sheet from the same material as the pendokok and buntut and reveted at the holes and also at the middle hole for the tang (pesi) and bead over at the crenation visible at the sides of the cross piece (gonjo). Since you have now dismantled all parts I would advise that you bath the blade and gonjo in lemon acid or pineapple juice (without sugar) until all rust is gone. You can find here many threads how to handle this. And yes, let test the pendokok material, it will be either gild silver or gold. I would let restore this pendokok, you will have after this a very nice keris, it's worth the effort. Maybe a gold smith can give the gonjo also a new cover!? ![]() ![]() Regards, Detlef |
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#7 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 5,503
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Thanks Detlef!
Will 3% vinegar do? |
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#8 |
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 6,991
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A word on cleaning.
Before soaking the blade it is a very good practice to remove any non-ferrous metals from the blade, the reason being that copper and brass can leave a deposit on the blade, similar to electro-plating, and this can be a bit difficult to remove. With this blade, get rid of the brass or whatever in the gonjo hole, and the pin that is stuck in the fixing hole. In respect of the fluid used to clean. For many years I used pineapple juice, but it was juice from fresh pineapples, not recomposed juice made from pineapple concentrate. The juice made from pineapple concentrate will clean a blade, but it is not good. I have stopped using it. I never have liked lemon juice, it seems to be too harsh, and the juice from my lemons makes a blade very dark and too difficult to stain when the cleaning is complete. Lime juice seems to be OK, but limes are very, very expensive. Citric acid is OK, but the last 20 or 30 blades that I've cleaned I have done with ordinary household white vinegar. This works well and does not damage the blade. This blade that we are considering at the moment will need daily mechanical cleaning during the cleaning, a small, sharp pointed implement is best used for this. I use a scraper made from a small triangular file that has a radius ground onto it. It is essential to carry out a proper process. Each day the blade must be removed from the vinegar and brushed with a stiff brush, rinsed under running water, dried, mechanically cleaned, rinsed, dried, returned to the vinegar. When the blade has had all the corrosion removed it is rinsed thoroughly, then it is painted with a slurry of bicarbonate of soda which is worked into it well. Allow the blade to stand for a while, say 15 minutes, rinse thoroughly, wash with dishwash detergent under running water, rinse thoroughly, dry with a clean lint free cloth, dry again with a hair dryer, spray with WD40 and allow to stand overnight. Then paint it with oil (lots of discussion on oils) and wrap in plastic film. If you want the blade in the white when finished cleaning, steel wool (OO) and powder sink cleaner is effective. Wash thoroughly under running water and with dishwash liquid when the blade is clean of the dark stain. You do this before the drying and oiling. |
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#9 | |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,228
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Nice keris btw. Hugging and kissing seems overdone, But calling it George... why not ![]() Best regards, Willem |
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