Malay Sundang for comment

drac2k · 7th January 2016, 09:17 PM

Maybe it was for the best that you didn't have any "real swords," or "knives with guards," as you previously stated ; if you had, she may have gotten a second "stab," at you. You could have been the one getting stitched up.
The glass is half full ?

Battara · 8th January 2016, 01:48 AM

To bring this back to the sundang, Kai you can heat the blade just below he hilt and that will heat the tang and get the hilt off. Use a butane torch for soft solder, that way the heat won't be hot enough to damage the steel blade.

kai · 9th January 2016, 01:05 AM

Hello Jose,

(BTW, it's Leif who is planning to work on this kris

)

I'm with you and also strongly recommend heating the base of the blade with an open flame: either a candle and lots of patience or a very gentle/flickering torch flame and being even more careful! Once the heat dissipates into the tang, it is usually fairly easy to remove the blade. Don't worry, the flame doesn't hurt the blade but try to get as little direct heat at the hilt. I usually wrap the grip with some cloth and wear gloves. Especially for the pommel this is a way more gentle approach than the cooking procedure described above! (Not needed for any SEA blade I tried to remove and I also doubt it is really called for when working things khukuri - heating Nepali blades did for me so far but my experience is admittedly very limited.)

The clamp is quite loose (looks a bit large for this kris) - once the resin softens due to the heat, it should be easy to gently bend it aside so that the blade can be removed from the hilt. When the tang starts to wiggle when gently pulling and twisting blade vs hilt, keep gently heating the blade until the tang comes off easily. If it doesn't, let it cool down and try again next day; even stubborn ones do come off after a few cycles.

Regards,
Kai

7th January 2016, 09:17 PM	#1
drac2k Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 1,262	Maybe it was for the best that you didn't have any "real swords," or "knives with guards," as you previously stated ; if you had, she may have gotten a second "stab," at you. You could have been the one getting stitched up. The glass is half full ?

8th January 2016, 01:48 AM	#2
Battara EAAF Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 7,284	To bring this back to the sundang, Kai you can heat the blade just below he hilt and that will heat the tang and get the hilt off. Use a butane torch for soft solder, that way the heat won't be hot enough to damage the steel blade.

9th January 2016, 01:05 AM	#3
kai Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 3,255	Hello Jose, (BTW, it's Leif who is planning to work on this kris ) I'm with you and also strongly recommend heating the base of the blade with an open flame: either a candle and lots of patience or a very gentle/flickering torch flame and being even more careful! Once the heat dissipates into the tang, it is usually fairly easy to remove the blade. Don't worry, the flame doesn't hurt the blade but try to get as little direct heat at the hilt. I usually wrap the grip with some cloth and wear gloves. Especially for the pommel this is a way more gentle approach than the cooking procedure described above! (Not needed for any SEA blade I tried to remove and I also doubt it is really called for when working things khukuri - heating Nepali blades did for me so far but my experience is admittedly very limited.) The clamp is quite loose (looks a bit large for this kris) - once the resin softens due to the heat, it should be easy to gently bend it aside so that the blade can be removed from the hilt. When the tang starts to wiggle when gently pulling and twisting blade vs hilt, keep gently heating the blade until the tang comes off easily. If it doesn't, let it cool down and try again next day; even stubborn ones do come off after a few cycles. Regards, Kai