Gunong

kai · 1st November 2012, 12:09 AM

BTW, I'd opt for the traditional resin recipe: damar is easy to order online, a bit of beeswax, and a filler and you're ready to go...

Robert · 1st November 2012, 02:55 AM

Kai, As far as I can tell the hole in the hilt looks to have been burnt in, It was more than likely made by using a small round piece of metal that would be heated red and then forced into the wood as far as it would go then the burnt material would be cleaned out with a small thin blade. This process would then be continued until the hole would be of significant depth for the tang to be inserted its full length. This could explain the irregular shape of the hole, larger at the starting point and smaller at its end but not maintaining a true taper. It would also explain the burnt wood smell that I noticed when cleaning the remaining adhesive from the inside surface of the socket. Of course this is all just speculation on my part and there is no way to prove that this was the way it was originally done, though it does make for a good story.

Regards,
Robert

P.S.
Cutlers resin is just pine resin mixed with a bit of beeswax and a filler but it looks as though damar resin is easier to find in small amounts and cheaper !!
Thank you for the tip.

Robert · 2nd November 2012, 07:15 AM

If there are no more questions on the hilt construction I am going to start the restoration process. There is one more question that I would like to ask. If anyone else has had one of these apart, was the tang offset from the centerline of the blade like this example? Thank you again for everyones help and suggestions.

Regards,
Robert

Sajen · 12th December 2012, 10:39 PM

Hello Robert,

some news?

Regards,

Detlef

Robert · 12th December 2012, 11:55 PM

Hello Detlef, Thank you for asking. I was thinking of posting these two pictures when you posted your reply. The hilt is done the best that I can do for the damage that it had sustained. The edges of the brake were really dark so I did a bleach job on the them and this is the result. They are now no where as dark as they were before bleaching and the seam though still quite evident is not as obvious as it was before. All it needs now is some wax and as far as I am concerned it is finished.

Regards,
Robert

Sajen · 13th December 2012, 12:46 AM

Wow, very well done! Now I am curious to see the punal when it is complete again!

Regards,

Detlef

Battara · 13th December 2012, 02:44 AM

Nice job and you brought the burled wood back!

kino · 22nd February 2013, 04:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robert Coleman

The edges of the brake were really dark so I did a bleach job on the them

What procedure did you follow and what materials were used to bleach the hilt?
Great job on restoring it!

Robert · 22nd February 2013, 07:03 AM

Hello Jose and thank you for your kind words about my work. I have to antique the brass and copper fittings yet but other than that I think the work on the knife itself is done as I do not plan on etching the blade. Now, on to the scabbard and making the missing fittings.

Kino, I use a 20% solution of clorox bleach and distilled water. I clean the wood of any wax and then clamp it together just like it was being glued and then apply the solution with a small paint brush to the stained areas. It is then placed in bright sunlight for a few hours. More solution is applied until the desired effect is achieved. I rinse off the piece and then place it into a container of distilled water to finish neutralizing the bleach. I always soak the wood I am working with overnight, dry off any excess water and then glue and clamp the pieces together and leave for a minimum of 72 hours before removing the clamp or clamps. I have always use distilled water when working with wood as that is the way I was taught many years ago. I hope that this information will be of some help to you or anyone else that runs into a situation that requires stain removal.

Best,
Robert

12th December 2012, 11:55 PM	#5
Robert EAAF Staff Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Centerville, Kansas Posts: 2,196	Hello Detlef, Thank you for asking. I was thinking of posting these two pictures when you posted your reply. The hilt is done the best that I can do for the damage that it had sustained. The edges of the brake were really dark so I did a bleach job on the them and this is the result. They are now no where as dark as they were before bleaching and the seam though still quite evident is not as obvious as it was before. All it needs now is some wax and as far as I am concerned it is finished. Regards, Robert Attached Images

1st November 2012, 12:09 AM	#1
kai Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 3,255	BTW, I'd opt for the traditional resin recipe: damar is easy to order online, a bit of beeswax, and a filler and you're ready to go...

1st November 2012, 02:55 AM	#2
Robert EAAF Staff Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Centerville, Kansas Posts: 2,196	Kai, As far as I can tell the hole in the hilt looks to have been burnt in, It was more than likely made by using a small round piece of metal that would be heated red and then forced into the wood as far as it would go then the burnt material would be cleaned out with a small thin blade. This process would then be continued until the hole would be of significant depth for the tang to be inserted its full length. This could explain the irregular shape of the hole, larger at the starting point and smaller at its end but not maintaining a true taper. It would also explain the burnt wood smell that I noticed when cleaning the remaining adhesive from the inside surface of the socket. Of course this is all just speculation on my part and there is no way to prove that this was the way it was originally done, though it does make for a good story. Regards, Robert P.S. Cutlers resin is just pine resin mixed with a bit of beeswax and a filler but it looks as though damar resin is easier to find in small amounts and cheaper !! Thank you for the tip.

2nd November 2012, 07:15 AM	#3
Robert EAAF Staff Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Centerville, Kansas Posts: 2,196	If there are no more questions on the hilt construction I am going to start the restoration process. There is one more question that I would like to ask. If anyone else has had one of these apart, was the tang offset from the centerline of the blade like this example? Thank you again for everyones help and suggestions. Regards, Robert

12th December 2012, 10:39 PM	#4
Sajen Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Germany, Dortmund Posts: 9,214	Hello Robert, some news? Regards, Detlef

13th December 2012, 12:46 AM	#6
Sajen Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Germany, Dortmund Posts: 9,214	Wow, very well done! Now I am curious to see the punal when it is complete again! Regards, Detlef

13th December 2012, 02:44 AM	#7
Battara EAAF Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 7,280	Nice job and you brought the burled wood back!

22nd February 2013, 07:03 AM	#9
Robert EAAF Staff Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Centerville, Kansas Posts: 2,196	Hello Jose and thank you for your kind words about my work. I have to antique the brass and copper fittings yet but other than that I think the work on the knife itself is done as I do not plan on etching the blade. Now, on to the scabbard and making the missing fittings. Kino, I use a 20% solution of clorox bleach and distilled water. I clean the wood of any wax and then clamp it together just like it was being glued and then apply the solution with a small paint brush to the stained areas. It is then placed in bright sunlight for a few hours. More solution is applied until the desired effect is achieved. I rinse off the piece and then place it into a container of distilled water to finish neutralizing the bleach. I always soak the wood I am working with overnight, dry off any excess water and then glue and clamp the pieces together and leave for a minimum of 72 hours before removing the clamp or clamps. I have always use distilled water when working with wood as that is the way I was taught many years ago. I hope that this information will be of some help to you or anyone else that runs into a situation that requires stain removal. Best, Robert