Electrolytic rust removal - please add your experiences!

Ian · 15th September 2005, 04:44 PM

Another very good abrasive that does not remove sound metal is a commericial product called "Black Beauty," which I think is a synthetic material. It is gentler than sand that will take off healthy iron or steel if you're not careful.

There are many other forms of abrasives used for blasting, including such things as peanut shells, ground corn husks, glass beads, plastic beads, etc.

Abrasive blasting should be done whenever possible in an enclosed cabinet to avoid inhaling the very fine particles that are produced. This is particularly important for sand, which contains silica and can cause serious lung disease. Abrasive blasting on large pieces done outside an enclosed box requires that the operators wear proper respirators, eye protection, etc. to protect themselves from the dust. It is also a noise hazard, so hearing protection should be used too.

Abrasive blasting is not a difficult procedure but it needs to be done with the proper safety precautions.

Ian.

RobT · 19th September 2005, 04:13 AM

Hi All,
I am posting before and after pictures of two African daggers that have undergone electric rust removal. The first, a Hadendoa dagger, has been very badly consumed by corrosion. The second, a Tuareg dagger, was rusted on the upper half of the blade and only lightly pitted. After immersion in the electrolyte bath, both blades were rubbed down with a 3M abrasive pad. Even though Ann cautions against this method, it appears to me that the proceedure yields good results. Perhaps the preservation needs of archaeologists are different than those likely to be encountered by the average blade collector? I would appreciate it if members would take a look at the results and offer feedback. I would especially welcome the advice from members that have successfully gotten rid of the grey staining that remains on blades once the rust has removed. Is there perhaps a poltice of some kind that can take care of this? The last image in this post is the Hadendoa sheath. For those that wish to see the Tuareg sheath, it can be found on the thread titled "Large Sudanese Dagger for Comment" by Louieblades.
Sincerely,
RobT

Ian · 20th September 2005, 05:56 PM

Rob:

Gentle abrasive blasting will get you back to white metal, removing rust, stain, patina with great ease. Protect the handles and anything else you don't want to abrade.

Ian.

Ann Feuerbach · 20th September 2005, 07:04 PM

The result is very good. You are correct to point out that the needs and requirement for restoration and conservation can be very different. I will be looking into this more again, when I get time. I will let you know the results so each of us can decide when it is an appropriate treatment, and when not. By the way, nice blades.
Ann

kai · 20th September 2005, 11:42 PM

Thanks, Ann, for the warning.

I have yet to finish my homework. However, the problems which I have seen being reported seem to center on heavily encrusted marine antiques and I'm still not sure how much this bears on removing relatively thin rust from steel blades. At least one should try to keep electrolysis as short as possible.

Regards,
Kai

15th September 2005, 04:44 PM	#1
Ian Vikingsword Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: The Aussie Bush Posts: 4,361	A word of caution when using abrasive blasting Another very good abrasive that does not remove sound metal is a commericial product called "Black Beauty," which I think is a synthetic material. It is gentler than sand that will take off healthy iron or steel if you're not careful. There are many other forms of abrasives used for blasting, including such things as peanut shells, ground corn husks, glass beads, plastic beads, etc. Abrasive blasting should be done whenever possible in an enclosed cabinet to avoid inhaling the very fine particles that are produced. This is particularly important for sand, which contains silica and can cause serious lung disease. Abrasive blasting on large pieces done outside an enclosed box requires that the operators wear proper respirators, eye protection, etc. to protect themselves from the dust. It is also a noise hazard, so hearing protection should be used too. Abrasive blasting is not a difficult procedure but it needs to be done with the proper safety precautions. Ian.

19th September 2005, 04:13 AM	#2
RobT Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 535	before and after pics Hi All, I am posting before and after pictures of two African daggers that have undergone electric rust removal. The first, a Hadendoa dagger, has been very badly consumed by corrosion. The second, a Tuareg dagger, was rusted on the upper half of the blade and only lightly pitted. After immersion in the electrolyte bath, both blades were rubbed down with a 3M abrasive pad. Even though Ann cautions against this method, it appears to me that the proceedure yields good results. Perhaps the preservation needs of archaeologists are different than those likely to be encountered by the average blade collector? I would appreciate it if members would take a look at the results and offer feedback. I would especially welcome the advice from members that have successfully gotten rid of the grey staining that remains on blades once the rust has removed. Is there perhaps a poltice of some kind that can take care of this? The last image in this post is the Hadendoa sheath. For those that wish to see the Tuareg sheath, it can be found on the thread titled "Large Sudanese Dagger for Comment" by Louieblades. Sincerely, RobT Attached Images

20th September 2005, 05:56 PM	#3
Ian Vikingsword Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: The Aussie Bush Posts: 4,361	Rob: Gentle abrasive blasting will get you back to white metal, removing rust, stain, patina with great ease. Protect the handles and anything else you don't want to abrade. Ian.

20th September 2005, 07:04 PM	#4
Ann Feuerbach Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 133	The result is very good. You are correct to point out that the needs and requirement for restoration and conservation can be very different. I will be looking into this more again, when I get time. I will let you know the results so each of us can decide when it is an appropriate treatment, and when not. By the way, nice blades. Ann

20th September 2005, 11:42 PM	#5
kai Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 3,255	Thanks, Ann, for the warning. I have yet to finish my homework. However, the problems which I have seen being reported seem to center on heavily encrusted marine antiques and I'm still not sure how much this bears on removing relatively thin rust from steel blades. At least one should try to keep electrolysis as short as possible. Regards, Kai