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#1 |
Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,336
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Detlef, was I you I would only try to remove the 'shellac' from the exposed parts of the silver Punto .
You get into that wood and fiber with solvent and you will have a real mess on your hands . ![]() Wood alchohol will remove the stuff from the silver with patience and a little rubbing . ![]() |
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 180
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Hi all, yes paintremover is quite an agressive stuff, but that is also the good think about it! One doesnt need to rub and brush and use substances that penetrate the wood etc!!!
It will just only affect the shellack and NOT the wood or organic matter and also patine. (it is like a siliconejam you put on top and does NOT penetrate materials) Meaning; one does not need to rub and brush the piece thoroughly and therefore rubbing off patine and destroying the dried out materials under. Yes I have used this myself quite often and I mostly clean it off just putting the object -already having the remover doing its work- under the (semi)hot running water and a very soft brush and dry it immediately after. Bit slight oiling of the wood and you'l see the piece come to life. Any method will take some patine off and -as a 'patineman' myself- I think this is the savest way to preserve any of that. Even if you have never dealt with it before it is quite safe but just dont put it on your hands or eyes and it does have a 'stingy' gas coming from it. But can easily and without damage be put on organic materials and be whiped away. You are becoming a handyman, arent you?!? He he. Good luck with any method you choose. Best, Wouter |
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#3 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Upstate New York, USA
Posts: 932
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Shellac will quickly dissolve in ordinary rubbing alcohol (70% isopropyl). So you could cautiously try a bit of that; if it does not dissolve it, then it is likely lacquer or another modern coating that will require a more powerful solvent.
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
Posts: 9,165
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Thank you all for your inputs, when I have received it I will try at first to clean it with isopropyl carefully at some points to see how it works. Will keep you updated.
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
Posts: 9,165
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I've now can post first pictures of my restore work!
![]() ![]() I was able to remove most of the coating with acetone, no other solution want to work. I've fixed carefully the opened scabbard and started to polish the blade, one side is nearly finished with 180 grit and show already a hardened edge. The handle ferrule is worked from white brass. Here some pictures. |
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#6 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,272
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Nice work dude!
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#7 | |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
Posts: 9,165
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#8 | |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,255
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Hello Detlef,
Nice barung - I'm looking forward to the etch! ![]() Quote:
BTW, the scabbard tip is made from horn? Regards, Kai |
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#9 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
Posts: 9,165
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Hello Kai,
thank you! ![]() Regards, Detlef |
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