Electrolytic rust removal - please add your experiences!

Ann Feuerbach · 8th September 2005, 03:41 PM

From an archaeological conservators point of view...electrolitic reduction was tried alot in the 1980s (I think that was the decade). It was discarded as you loose alot of technological information, thus reducing the authenticity of the piece. Try a conservation site for more information. Do a search using ww.Dogpile.com and I think it is the AIC site that has journals you can look up online. Basically, while it might work, it is should not be recommended.

Ann Feuerbach · 8th September 2005, 03:43 PM

For a more positive suggestion, air abrasion is the preferred method these days.

RobT · 14th September 2005, 03:06 AM

Hi All,
I put the experimental blade in the electrolyte bath for a second time and left it overnight. (This before Ann's warning.) No sound metal appears to have been removed but frankly, the blade is in such sad shape that it's hard for me to tell. When I post the before and after pictures this weekend perhaps other forum members can point out things that I have missed. My thanks to Ann for the warning. I will certainly look up the recommended web sites for further information. By the way, what is this air abrasion? A kinder, gentler sandblasting perhaps? Is there a website that gives a detailed description of this method and the necessary equipment?
Sincerely,
RobT

Ann Feuerbach · 15th September 2005, 03:59 PM

Yeah, basically sandblasting with glass pellets (I forgot at this second what they are technically called) micro beads?

Ian · 15th September 2005, 04:44 PM

Another very good abrasive that does not remove sound metal is a commericial product called "Black Beauty," which I think is a synthetic material. It is gentler than sand that will take off healthy iron or steel if you're not careful.

There are many other forms of abrasives used for blasting, including such things as peanut shells, ground corn husks, glass beads, plastic beads, etc.

Abrasive blasting should be done whenever possible in an enclosed cabinet to avoid inhaling the very fine particles that are produced. This is particularly important for sand, which contains silica and can cause serious lung disease. Abrasive blasting on large pieces done outside an enclosed box requires that the operators wear proper respirators, eye protection, etc. to protect themselves from the dust. It is also a noise hazard, so hearing protection should be used too.

Abrasive blasting is not a difficult procedure but it needs to be done with the proper safety precautions.

Ian.

RobT · 19th September 2005, 04:13 AM

Hi All,
I am posting before and after pictures of two African daggers that have undergone electric rust removal. The first, a Hadendoa dagger, has been very badly consumed by corrosion. The second, a Tuareg dagger, was rusted on the upper half of the blade and only lightly pitted. After immersion in the electrolyte bath, both blades were rubbed down with a 3M abrasive pad. Even though Ann cautions against this method, it appears to me that the proceedure yields good results. Perhaps the preservation needs of archaeologists are different than those likely to be encountered by the average blade collector? I would appreciate it if members would take a look at the results and offer feedback. I would especially welcome the advice from members that have successfully gotten rid of the grey staining that remains on blades once the rust has removed. Is there perhaps a poltice of some kind that can take care of this? The last image in this post is the Hadendoa sheath. For those that wish to see the Tuareg sheath, it can be found on the thread titled "Large Sudanese Dagger for Comment" by Louieblades.
Sincerely,
RobT

Ian · 20th September 2005, 05:56 PM

Rob:

Gentle abrasive blasting will get you back to white metal, removing rust, stain, patina with great ease. Protect the handles and anything else you don't want to abrade.

Ian.

14th September 2005, 03:06 AM	#3
RobT Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 564	Pictures to come this weekend Hi All, I put the experimental blade in the electrolyte bath for a second time and left it overnight. (This before Ann's warning.) No sound metal appears to have been removed but frankly, the blade is in such sad shape that it's hard for me to tell. When I post the before and after pictures this weekend perhaps other forum members can point out things that I have missed. My thanks to Ann for the warning. I will certainly look up the recommended web sites for further information. By the way, what is this air abrasion? A kinder, gentler sandblasting perhaps? Is there a website that gives a detailed description of this method and the necessary equipment? Sincerely, RobT

15th September 2005, 04:44 PM	#5
Ian Vikingsword Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: The Aussie Bush Posts: 4,454	A word of caution when using abrasive blasting Another very good abrasive that does not remove sound metal is a commericial product called "Black Beauty," which I think is a synthetic material. It is gentler than sand that will take off healthy iron or steel if you're not careful. There are many other forms of abrasives used for blasting, including such things as peanut shells, ground corn husks, glass beads, plastic beads, etc. Abrasive blasting should be done whenever possible in an enclosed cabinet to avoid inhaling the very fine particles that are produced. This is particularly important for sand, which contains silica and can cause serious lung disease. Abrasive blasting on large pieces done outside an enclosed box requires that the operators wear proper respirators, eye protection, etc. to protect themselves from the dust. It is also a noise hazard, so hearing protection should be used too. Abrasive blasting is not a difficult procedure but it needs to be done with the proper safety precautions. Ian.

19th September 2005, 04:13 AM	#6
RobT Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 564	before and after pics Hi All, I am posting before and after pictures of two African daggers that have undergone electric rust removal. The first, a Hadendoa dagger, has been very badly consumed by corrosion. The second, a Tuareg dagger, was rusted on the upper half of the blade and only lightly pitted. After immersion in the electrolyte bath, both blades were rubbed down with a 3M abrasive pad. Even though Ann cautions against this method, it appears to me that the proceedure yields good results. Perhaps the preservation needs of archaeologists are different than those likely to be encountered by the average blade collector? I would appreciate it if members would take a look at the results and offer feedback. I would especially welcome the advice from members that have successfully gotten rid of the grey staining that remains on blades once the rust has removed. Is there perhaps a poltice of some kind that can take care of this? The last image in this post is the Hadendoa sheath. For those that wish to see the Tuareg sheath, it can be found on the thread titled "Large Sudanese Dagger for Comment" by Louieblades. Sincerely, RobT Attached Images

8th September 2005, 03:41 PM	#1
Ann Feuerbach Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 133	From an archaeological conservators point of view...electrolitic reduction was tried alot in the 1980s (I think that was the decade). It was discarded as you loose alot of technological information, thus reducing the authenticity of the piece. Try a conservation site for more information. Do a search using ww.Dogpile.com and I think it is the AIC site that has journals you can look up online. Basically, while it might work, it is should not be recommended.

8th September 2005, 03:43 PM	#2
Ann Feuerbach Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 133	For a more positive suggestion, air abrasion is the preferred method these days.

15th September 2005, 03:59 PM	#4
Ann Feuerbach Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 133	Yeah, basically sandblasting with glass pellets (I forgot at this second what they are technically called) micro beads?

20th September 2005, 05:56 PM	#7
Ian Vikingsword Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: The Aussie Bush Posts: 4,454	Rob: Gentle abrasive blasting will get you back to white metal, removing rust, stain, patina with great ease. Protect the handles and anything else you don't want to abrade. Ian.