Restaining kris?

David · 6th November 2011, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spunjer

David, is there anyone around here that does that? I mean stains keris?

Well Ron, i've been known to do my own, but i don't generally do it as a service since i hardly feel that my skills are of a professional quality.

Sajen · 6th November 2011, 02:48 PM

Hi Spunjer,

why don't try it byself? You will find here several threads where it is described how to do it.

Regards,

Detlef

Spunjer · 6th November 2011, 02:49 PM

lol, that's cool. as you may well know, this is not my area, but every now and then i do come across a keris or two. just wanna know where i could take it to bring out the pamor...

A. G. Maisey · 6th November 2011, 08:09 PM

Ron, if you just want to see the pamor pattern you can clean up the blade --- heaps on this in various threads --- and then hit it with ferric chloride, same stuff knife makers use to stain damascus, and used to etch electrical circuit boards.

A proper stain job becomes a bit more difficult, because you need to be able to get hold of some laboratory quality white arsenic ( arsenic tri-oxide), and some fresh limes.

However, if you want to pay somebody to do it in a western country, you could be looking at paying more than the blade is worth.

I've been staining blades since I was a kid, and I've had instruction from some of the best m'ranggi in Central Jawa. I have spent as long as several days in staining just one blade. The method I use is the same one that is used on high quality blades, it is not the quick mass production method, but my way of doing it is the only really practical one if you want to do just the occasional blade and you want a good, solid, long lasting finish.

Now, if you've got to pay somebody to do that job, even at a very low hourly rate, its going to cost money.

There might be a few people around who are still learning, and who are prepared to do the job for free, or charge just sufficient to cover expenses, so that they can gain experience, but really, it is best to try to do it yourself.

Spunjer · 7th November 2011, 12:09 AM

Sajen and Alan, thank you... i've thought about it and actually searched the archive regarding this topic, and what i've read so far, i thought i'd better leave it to the more experienced before i ended screwing it all up. screwing up as in not coming out the way i've seen here. with that said, i'll give it a try on this most recent one i've picked up.

A. G. Maisey · 7th November 2011, 12:31 AM

Ron, with staining it doesn't matter if you make a mess of it, because you can just clean it off and start again.

One of the keris I made myself, I spent more than 3 days on. I was not going to be satisfied with anything less than perfection.

I reckon I must have cleaned it off with steel wool and powder sink cleaner (Ajax) at least 10 times before I got a result that could not be improved on.

Spunjer · 7th November 2011, 01:52 AM

Lol, thanks for the confidence, Alan. I've etched countless moro and filipino swords, some came out excellent while others turned out not so good. My guess is it should be the same process, no? All i've got on hand are white vinegar and FeCl.. i'll see what happens

A. G. Maisey · 7th November 2011, 02:33 AM

Ron, if all you need is to see the pattern, ferric chloride is quite OK, and takes about 5 minutes. I've done literally hundreds of mechanical damascus blades, and if you've used the stuff previously, its easy.

Doing a proper, high quality, traditional stain on a keris blade is a totally different ball of wool.

On an old, previously stained blade, it might only take an hour or even less, on a newly made blade, a recent blade, a blade that has required intensive cleaning, a blade with a complex pamor, a blade with unusual pamor material --- and other unmentioned conditions --- the time used to achieve a satisfactory result can amount to quite a bit. I usually allow a day per blade, and hope it won't run into more. If you want a perfect result, then it is definitely going to take longer, maybe a lot longer.

6th November 2011, 02:48 PM	#2
Sajen Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Germany, Dortmund Posts: 9,165	Hi Spunjer, why don't try it byself? You will find here several threads where it is described how to do it. Regards, Detlef

6th November 2011, 02:49 PM	#3
Spunjer Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Witness Protection Program Posts: 1,730	lol, that's cool. as you may well know, this is not my area, but every now and then i do come across a keris or two. just wanna know where i could take it to bring out the pamor...

6th November 2011, 08:09 PM	#4
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 6,992	Ron, if you just want to see the pamor pattern you can clean up the blade --- heaps on this in various threads --- and then hit it with ferric chloride, same stuff knife makers use to stain damascus, and used to etch electrical circuit boards. A proper stain job becomes a bit more difficult, because you need to be able to get hold of some laboratory quality white arsenic ( arsenic tri-oxide), and some fresh limes. However, if you want to pay somebody to do it in a western country, you could be looking at paying more than the blade is worth. I've been staining blades since I was a kid, and I've had instruction from some of the best m'ranggi in Central Jawa. I have spent as long as several days in staining just one blade. The method I use is the same one that is used on high quality blades, it is not the quick mass production method, but my way of doing it is the only really practical one if you want to do just the occasional blade and you want a good, solid, long lasting finish. Now, if you've got to pay somebody to do that job, even at a very low hourly rate, its going to cost money. There might be a few people around who are still learning, and who are prepared to do the job for free, or charge just sufficient to cover expenses, so that they can gain experience, but really, it is best to try to do it yourself.

7th November 2011, 12:09 AM	#5
Spunjer Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Witness Protection Program Posts: 1,730	Sajen and Alan, thank you... i've thought about it and actually searched the archive regarding this topic, and what i've read so far, i thought i'd better leave it to the more experienced before i ended screwing it all up. screwing up as in not coming out the way i've seen here. with that said, i'll give it a try on this most recent one i've picked up.

7th November 2011, 12:31 AM	#6
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 6,992	Ron, with staining it doesn't matter if you make a mess of it, because you can just clean it off and start again. One of the keris I made myself, I spent more than 3 days on. I was not going to be satisfied with anything less than perfection. I reckon I must have cleaned it off with steel wool and powder sink cleaner (Ajax) at least 10 times before I got a result that could not be improved on.

7th November 2011, 01:52 AM	#7
Spunjer Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Witness Protection Program Posts: 1,730	Lol, thanks for the confidence, Alan. I've etched countless moro and filipino swords, some came out excellent while others turned out not so good. My guess is it should be the same process, no? All i've got on hand are white vinegar and FeCl.. i'll see what happens

7th November 2011, 02:33 AM	#8
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 6,992	Ron, if all you need is to see the pattern, ferric chloride is quite OK, and takes about 5 minutes. I've done literally hundreds of mechanical damascus blades, and if you've used the stuff previously, its easy. Doing a proper, high quality, traditional stain on a keris blade is a totally different ball of wool. On an old, previously stained blade, it might only take an hour or even less, on a newly made blade, a recent blade, a blade that has required intensive cleaning, a blade with a complex pamor, a blade with unusual pamor material --- and other unmentioned conditions --- the time used to achieve a satisfactory result can amount to quite a bit. I usually allow a day per blade, and hope it won't run into more. If you want a perfect result, then it is definitely going to take longer, maybe a lot longer.