Moro Keris for comments

[CharlesS]

I wouldn't clean the ivory, and I wouldn't put lacquer ANYwhere. Lacquer may have a short term reward, but in the long term it will not do anything but diminish the value and likely the beauty.

[David]

Originally Posted by CharlesS

I wouldn't clean the ivory, and I wouldn't put lacquer ANYwhere. Lacquer may have a short term reward, but in the long term it will not do anything but diminish the value and likely the beauty.

I wouldn't "clean" the ivory either, but i would condition it. I usually use mineral oil. It "cleans" it up without removing any of the patina and gives the ivory a nice luster.

[kai]

Hello Charles,

I wouldn't put lacquer ANYwhere. Lacquer may have a short term reward, but in the long term it will not do anything but diminish the value and likely the beauty.

The optional lacquer on the silver (inlay or next to the blade) is just for protecting it during the etching; it is to be carefully removed after finishing the blade. Shellac is a bit more forgiving and only needs ethanol as the solvent. Modern lacquer on wood/etc. is indeed a bad idea.

I agree that the (limited) protection is usually not worth the effort and hassle (if you know what you're doing and can work fast).

Regards,
Kai

[CharlesS]

Never heard of mineral oil for ivory, but seems like a plausible idea David. It doesn't leave any stain on the ivory? I know some thinner oils will.

[Gavin Nugent]

All ivory owners might find this useful...reference cited at the end;

Caring for Antique Ivory

Ivory is extremely sensitive to humidity and temperature fluctuations. The most important factor is keeping conditions as constant as possible to prevent shrinking and expanding. Extreme conditions or rapid fluctuations should be avoided (something to consider if shipping your canes from one climate to another). It is suggested that the humidity level be maintained at a level between 45-55%, with a temperature of between 65-72 degrees. Too much moisture, i.e. over 70%, can cause mold and mildew damage, including black spots and etching of the surfaces, warping and swelling. Avoid direct heat or outside walls, cold windows or any source of moisture condensation (basements or attics).

Avoid placing ivory pieces in direct sunlight. Direct sunlight raises the temperature and lowers the humidity, contributing to cracks and color change, specifically bleaching. Low light levels offers the best protection.

Antique ivory should be handled with care. White gloves are suggested; if not available, wash your hands carefully to remove hand oils and dirt, as ivory darkens as a result of contact with skin oils. Some darkening, or patina, is the result of the natural aging process. Ivory is porous, and susceptible to staining, so keep separate from corroding materials and other colored materials.

Methods of ivory hydration
Ivory tends to dry out with age. The older the ivory, the more brittle. A very light vegetable oil can be used to hydrate directly (avoid on scrimshaw as inks may run). Also suggested, every 6 months or so, wrap ivory pieces in soft cloth saturated with mineral oil or glycerin. Allow to sit overnight and wipe off the excess in the morning.

Cleaning ivory
Never attempt to remove the surface coat pigment or patina, as it affords protection for the piece, and is an indication of age. Many liquids, including water and cleaning solutions, are destructive to ivory, and should be avoided. Applying water may cause swelling and cracking. Extremely dirty pieces should be referred to a professional conservator, as well as pieces that are dyed, pigmented or inlayed. When in doubt, consult with an expert.

Dry cleaning methods may be attempted: Using a clean, soft paintbrush or toothbrush, carefully brush dirt off the object.

Ivory that is in good condition should be cleaned and wiped gently with a soft, clean cloth. If dirt remains, but no cracks, using a solution of 50% ethyl alcohol and 50% distilled water, dip a Q-tip into the solution and blot on a piece of paper towel. Use this to clean a small, inconspicuous area, and dry immediately. If this goes well, clean the entire piece in this manner, working on one small piece at a time, and drying immediately.1

Remember: When in doubt, consult with a professional.


1 The Cane Collector’s Chronicle, Volume 4, Number 1, January, 1993.

[Spunjer]

Originally Posted by CharlesS

Never heard of mineral oil for ivory, but seems like a plausible idea David. It doesn't leave any stain on the ivory? I know some thinner oils will.

nah, bro... i saturate couple pieces of tissue paper with it, then use it to cover the ivory piece. put a ziploc bag on top of it, then secure it with rubber band..

[Royston]

First cleaning photos. Blade only.

As suggested, it was performed with toothpicks, thin oil, very fine wire wool and emery. Although there is quite a bit of the silver missing, no more came out while I was cleaning.

I am pleased with the results so far and will continue when I get more time.

Regards
Roy

[Dimasalang]

Wow, awesome piece! Thanks for sharing. One of the best looking Krises I've seen in here.

[Maurice]

Great handsome blade Roy!

Maurice