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#1 |
(deceased)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bavaria, Germany - the center of 15th and 16th century gunmaking
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Hi Gene,
I've never seen that kind of signature. Cracked mainsprings can often be electrically welded and will fairly hold action! Just clean the broken contact areas. Best, Michael |
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#2 | |
(deceased)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Portugal
Posts: 9,694
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#3 |
(deceased)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bavaria, Germany - the center of 15th and 16th century gunmaking
Posts: 4,310
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That was my first impression, 'Nando, but it was up to the boss
![]() ![]() Best, Michl |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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Para cualquier restauracíon en las partes de hierro o acero, la única manera de eliminar el óxido, es química. Aunque se trate de limpiar con tela de esmeril, la corrosión se mantiene en las depresiones, y la existencia de un óxido como cuerpo extraño en la superficie del metal forma un par galvánico, que promueve la posterior oxidación. El único método efectivo para eliminar el óxido es la electrolisis, o el método de Zinc-soda
For any restoration in parts of iron or steel, the only way to remove rust, is chemistry. Although it is cleaned with emery cloth, corrosion remains in the depressions, and the existence of an oxide as a foreign body in the metal surface forms a galvanic couple, which promotes further oxidation. The only effective method to remove rust is electrolysis, or the method of Zinc-soda EscucharLeer fonéticamente |
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#5 |
(deceased)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bavaria, Germany - the center of 15th and 16th century gunmaking
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As to possible damage, we should differentiate varios forms of rust.
Removing aggressive red surface rust does, in my experience, not need chemicals but just oil. Oiling will passivate it. Old, plain and black rust is stable in itself and does not need any treatment except oil. I dare repeat my credo once more: chemicals will irreversibly ruin and spoil old surfaces. I would always prefer a heavily patinated, dark iron surface to any bright polish. Its impression is much closer to the original period surface, and you can always take something off but hardly add anything! Don't forget that these items have come down to us unrotten since hundreds of years in untouched condition. We won't live to see them vanish under our hands even if we preserve their charming old surfaces. Best, Michael Last edited by fernando; 19th July 2011 at 12:07 PM. |
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#6 |
(deceased)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bavaria, Germany - the center of 15th and 16th century gunmaking
Posts: 4,310
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Grrr,
That silly question mark shouldn't be there but I can't seem to remove it. m |
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#7 |
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 671
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Hola, Matchlock
No existe óxido estable: la película de óxido sigue carcomiendo debajo de su superficie, aunque en apariencia permanece inmóvil. Hasta en el pavonado (en realidad una oxidacion controlada) si no se sigue un tratamiento adecuado, termina en una oxidacion severa. La electrólisis es inocua para el metal, y se basa en la propiedad del hidrógeno naciente para descomponer el óxido. Lo mismo pasa con el método de zinc-soda. Saludos, Fernando Hello, Matchlock There is no stable oxide, the oxide film is eating away beneath its surface, although seemingly immobile. Even the peacock (actually a controlled oxidation) not following proper treatment, ending in a severe oxidation. Electrolysis is safe for metal, and is based on the ownership of the nascent hydrogen to break down rust. Same with the zinc-soda method. Regards, Fernando |
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#8 | |
(deceased)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Portugal
Posts: 9,694
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