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#1 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,272
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Well, the etch for Moro swords is different and not as strong nor deep as it is for Indonesian pieces.
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Witness Protection Program
Posts: 1,730
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like tunggulametung said, you don't have to be specific. i used an ol' cheapo batt charger from sears, with 2Amps/8Amps switch, with it switched to 2 amps. then five 3/4" iron rebars and small gauge copper wires. i used carbonate soda (from walmart; brand name Arm and Hammer) for electrolyte and there you got it. just check up on it every 15-20 minute or so, depending how bad the rust is.
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Dortmund, Germany
Posts: 102
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@Spunjer & Tunggulametung
Thanks for the pictures and detailed instructions. I will definitely build a test-setup ( I have more than enough rusty stuff lying around). If i will use it for the moro kris i will decide later. ![]() @Battara Thanks for dating the kris. After looking at some picture it may indeed be a sulu blade. I see no evidence of former metal applications on the hilt (nails, rifts, holes, etc.) If there were any, the must have either been glued or the hilt must have been recarved after their removal. I will keep you informed about the further progess. ![]() Best Regards, Thilo |
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#4 | |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
Posts: 9,165
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![]() Quote:
Regards, Detlef |
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#5 | |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Dortmund, Germany
Posts: 102
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I built a test-setup large enough to contain a rusty crow-bar. As power-supply i used a computer power supply that is able to deliver 5A @12V. The counter electrode was a steel-band roughly the same length of the crow-bar and placed parallel to the crow-bar. The electrolyte used was sodium carbonate. And this is what happened: The power supply immediately switched off. I guess it detected a short. So i started pulling the setup out to see at what length of crow-bar could be cleaned with my setup (don't try this at home!). Turns out 40cm of crow-bar can be cleaned with this rather primitive setup. Putting in a high-power resistor that limits the current to 5A (2.4Ohms) would probably allow larger items at the cost of speed and isotropy. However, i didn't follow that path because i didn't manage get the hilt off and i didn't want to stain the hilt with the rather nasty electrolitic solution. So i went to the classic approach with low concentration citric acid... ![]() The results can be seen in the attached photos. The blade lamination that is not really visible on the photos shows a small edge around a uniform core. |
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
Posts: 9,165
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Good result!
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#7 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 180
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are you going to give it an etch also? Although actually I do not see any 'activity' of lamination it might anyway improve the metal shine/appearance of the blade, and who knows . . . .
(am sure Sajen was about to ask the same?!? ![]() |
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