yet another Moro Kris

mrwizard · 26th September 2010, 05:46 PM

@sajen Using Acetone in this case is probably not a good idea. First i don't know what the black stuff is. Chances are that contact with acetone will create a big mess. Second, while acetone doesn't attack wood it might attack whatever oil was used to stain the wood and thus change the stain.
Third if the acetone solves the lacquer i will have a sticky laqcuer solution on the hilt that might be harder to remove than the brittle lacquer.

@Tim you are probably right. "POLYURETHANE" wouldn't be as brittle like this and it has light yellowish color. My first guess would be that it is a thick layer of varnish based on lineseed oil.

But as brittle as it is, i can easily scratch it of with my fingernail and use a needle for the carvings. The wooden area would not be the problem. I'm unsure about the black area. Depending on what it is it might degrade without protection by the lacquer.

Sajen · 26th September 2010, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrwizard

@sajen Using Acetone in this case is probably not a good idea. First i don't know what the black stuff is. Chances are that contact with acetone will create a big mess. Second, while acetone doesn't attack wood it might attack whatever oil was used to stain the wood and thus change the stain.
Third if the acetone solves the lacquer i will have a sticky laqcuer solution on the hilt that might be harder to remove than the brittle lacquer.

I have had in mind only the wooden part of the hilt.

Tim Simmons · 26th September 2010, 06:08 PM

It is possible that the person that did this in the first place, thought it very cool !!! Nice and shiny and water repelent !
So who are we to say this is not right?

I admit it is not how we as collectors want things to be. Like old masks before they were really old, were only snapped up by early collectors after they had been darkened. Again thats how collectors want things

.

Rick · 26th September 2010, 07:56 PM

Leave the wrap as it is; there is probably thin cotton string making up the wrap . I have seen this work with a dark green lac applied indiginously .
Don't mess with that .

http://www.arscives.com/historysteel...1/160-rb3a.jpg

The pommel ?
I offer the same advice .

mrwizard · 26th September 2010, 09:01 PM

@Tim & Rick
Good point. Until now i assumed that the lacquer had been added later on to preserve the hilt but you are of course
right it might as well be part of the original setup to
harden it against the local environment.

I will leave it as it this.

Amazing -- what i thought would be a lengthy
restoration project turned out as being rather short...

Best Regards and many thanks to all contributors,
Thilo

Battara · 26th September 2010, 09:33 PM

I would leave the grip and only add black lacquer (which I have bought at Lowe's) to what remains to maintain the integrity of the piece. I would do no more to the hilt than that.

The blade - actually looks good from here, why bother any more with it?

Rick · 26th September 2010, 11:24 PM

Yep; and field repairs are part of the history of this sword .
My scabbard also shows repairs .

26th September 2010, 07:56 PM	#4
Rick Vikingsword Staff Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 6,336	Leave the wrap as it is; there is probably thin cotton string making up the wrap . I have seen this work with a dark green lac applied indiginously . Don't mess with that . http://www.arscives.com/historysteel...1/160-rb3a.jpg The pommel ? I offer the same advice . Last edited by Rick; 26th September 2010 at 08:57 PM.

26th September 2010, 05:46 PM	#1
mrwizard Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Dortmund, Germany Posts: 102	@sajen Using Acetone in this case is probably not a good idea. First i don't know what the black stuff is. Chances are that contact with acetone will create a big mess. Second, while acetone doesn't attack wood it might attack whatever oil was used to stain the wood and thus change the stain. Third if the acetone solves the lacquer i will have a sticky laqcuer solution on the hilt that might be harder to remove than the brittle lacquer. @Tim you are probably right. "POLYURETHANE" wouldn't be as brittle like this and it has light yellowish color. My first guess would be that it is a thick layer of varnish based on lineseed oil. But as brittle as it is, i can easily scratch it of with my fingernail and use a needle for the carvings. The wooden area would not be the problem. I'm unsure about the black area. Depending on what it is it might degrade without protection by the lacquer.

26th September 2010, 06:08 PM	#3
Tim Simmons Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: What is still UK Posts: 5,843	It is possible that the person that did this in the first place, thought it very cool !!! Nice and shiny and water repelent ! So who are we to say this is not right? I admit it is not how we as collectors want things to be. Like old masks before they were really old, were only snapped up by early collectors after they had been darkened. Again thats how collectors want things .

26th September 2010, 09:01 PM	#5
mrwizard Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Dortmund, Germany Posts: 102	@Tim & Rick Good point. Until now i assumed that the lacquer had been added later on to preserve the hilt but you are of course right it might as well be part of the original setup to harden it against the local environment. I will leave it as it this. Amazing -- what i thought would be a lengthy restoration project turned out as being rather short... Best Regards and many thanks to all contributors, Thilo

26th September 2010, 09:33 PM	#6
Battara EAAF Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 7,272	I would leave the grip and only add black lacquer (which I have bought at Lowe's) to what remains to maintain the integrity of the piece. I would do no more to the hilt than that. The blade - actually looks good from here, why bother any more with it?

26th September 2010, 11:24 PM	#7
Rick Vikingsword Staff Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 6,336	Yep; and field repairs are part of the history of this sword . My scabbard also shows repairs .