Rusted 17th C persian shamshir within decayed scabbard

celtan · 11th September 2010, 04:41 PM

You are most welcome.

Will do. Thanks for contributing.

So, you actually advise me to use a syringe and lubricate from the inside, instead of simply dunking the whole weapon on an "oil bucket", so to speak?

What if I used a "Break-away" type of mineral oil instead. The kind that comes in pressurized cans, with a fine plastic canula , to loose frozen locks?

BTW, nice name...

Manuel

Gavin Nugent · 12th September 2010, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by celtan

You are most welcome.

Will do. Thanks for contributing.

So, you actually advise me to use a syringe and lubricate from the inside, instead of simply dunking the whole weapon on an "oil bucket", so to speak?

What if I used a "Break-away" type of mineral oil instead. The kind that comes in pressurized cans, with a fine plastic canula , to loose frozen locks?

BTW, nice name...

Manuel

Thanks Manuel,

Ye ole Pirate suggests just that, sinking the whole lot into a vat of oil seems so troublesome and intensive to clean. Work slowly at it and I think it is most likely stuck down near the drag. The product you note is fine in my eyes.
I have found the best place to grip when removing a stuck sword is one hand near the base, say just past the percussion point and the other on the hilt and give it all you got.

Gav

celtan · 12th September 2010, 06:31 PM

Hi Gav,

Used the mineral oil through breaks in the scabbard, let it soak for a couple hours, applied some judicious tapping to the crossguard, and voila!

Now, the condition of the blade as it is is troubling. The rust has grown to a concrescence in certain areas, as you can see. I was wondering how to deal with it. I have never had to work on such heavy rust. Naval Jelly? A Dremel Drill? Seems like an obscene fungus growth.

Any suggestions?

Best

Manuel

Rick · 12th September 2010, 08:15 PM

Rennaisance makes a very good de-corroder; this will work well in the pitted areas after the rust has been removed .
PM if you need a source .

Soaking in acid fruit juice, Pineapple; would remove most of the crud from the blade .
Coca Cola is a great rust remover .

The handle is a problem unto itself .
Maybe the Rennaisance de-corroder would be a good choice for the rust on the hilt .

Gavin Nugent · 12th September 2010, 09:35 PM

Congrats Manuel,

Little mess, little effort, complete item job done.

Do not dremel, you will be left with undulating surfaces, the rusted ereas will quickly be eaten out and the good steel not.
You have a tiresome process ahead. I'll be in touch.

Gav

celtan · 12th September 2010, 11:56 PM

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the pointers. I felt like a caveman for even contemplating the Dremel alternative, but the rust deposits found are dramatic.

BTW, Rick. I was researching a filipino keris on the Ethnic Weapons Forums, and chanced upon a very interesting thread on blade care. Saw the Pineaple and the Coconut juice suggestions. Very interesting! I have limitedly used tomato sauce in the past.

Will answer all pms ASAP.

Best regards, and thank you very much for your assistance.

Best regards

M

Quote:

Originally Posted by freebooter

Congrats Manuel,

Little mess, little effort, complete item job done.

Do not dremel, you will be left with undulating surfaces, the rusted ereas will quickly be eaten out and the good steel not.
You have a tiresome process ahead. I'll be in touch.

Gav

Rick · 13th September 2010, 01:21 AM

Pineapple juice is good; Coke takes rust off of anything .

You have to soak; a wallpaper tub from the paint store is a cheap and effective lengthways container about 4-6" deep .

The Rennaisance product is a gel so you can paint it on specific areas; it will not run .

12th September 2010, 09:35 PM	#5
Gavin Nugent Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 2,818	CONGRATS Congrats Manuel, Little mess, little effort, complete item job done. Do not dremel, you will be left with undulating surfaces, the rusted ereas will quickly be eaten out and the good steel not. You have a tiresome process ahead. I'll be in touch. Gav

11th September 2010, 04:41 PM	#1
celtan Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: PR, USA Posts: 679	You are most welcome. Will do. Thanks for contributing. So, you actually advise me to use a syringe and lubricate from the inside, instead of simply dunking the whole weapon on an "oil bucket", so to speak? What if I used a "Break-away" type of mineral oil instead. The kind that comes in pressurized cans, with a fine plastic canula , to loose frozen locks? BTW, nice name... Manuel

12th September 2010, 06:31 PM	#3
celtan Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: PR, USA Posts: 679	Hi Gav, Used the mineral oil through breaks in the scabbard, let it soak for a couple hours, applied some judicious tapping to the crossguard, and voila! Now, the condition of the blade as it is is troubling. The rust has grown to a concrescence in certain areas, as you can see. I was wondering how to deal with it. I have never had to work on such heavy rust. Naval Jelly? A Dremel Drill? Seems like an obscene fungus growth. Any suggestions? Best Manuel

12th September 2010, 08:15 PM	#4
Rick Vikingsword Staff Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 6,340	Rennaisance makes a very good de-corroder; this will work well in the pitted areas after the rust has been removed . PM if you need a source . Soaking in acid fruit juice, Pineapple; would remove most of the crud from the blade . Coca Cola is a great rust remover . The handle is a problem unto itself . Maybe the Rennaisance de-corroder would be a good choice for the rust on the hilt .

13th September 2010, 01:21 AM	#7
Rick Vikingsword Staff Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 6,340	Pineapple juice is good; Coke takes rust off of anything . You have to soak; a wallpaper tub from the paint store is a cheap and effective lengthways container about 4-6" deep . The Rennaisance product is a gel so you can paint it on specific areas; it will not run .