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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Europe
Posts: 2,718
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Henk, about the first tulwar you write that it has three copper dots. Am I correct when I guess that they are in a row?
You did a good buy, even when I don’t know what you paid. Especially the last one is interesting. Is it possible that you can take close up pictures of the hilts and the discs from above? While you are at it, why not take a few shots of the blades ![]() Congratulations on the find ![]() |
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 176
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I like the first one. The second one is also nice, but is way over re-sharpened, the blade looks strange. Call me mad but, the patina looks BEAUTIFUL! I would keep it as it is if I were you.
EDIT: One question, are the hilts loose? This issue is very common with tulwars, both new and antique. Last edited by M.carter; 12th June 2005 at 01:20 AM. |
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#3 |
Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,336
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Henk , the only thing I would check is if these blades have been varnished or lacquered ; if they have then I would think that removing the old applied finish would be acceptable .
Then I would apply Rennaisance Wax as a substitute . As you probably know it was not unusual for collectors of earlier times to varnish or lacquer their pieces to prevent rusting . They are all beauties . IMO sharpening shows an active career for the sword . |
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 1,725
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Henk,
Is the straight-bladed example edged on both sides or is it a "back sword", edged only on one? Is it sharpened at all? The tulwar hilt is not condusive to the thrust with a straight blade, as it doesn't permit the wrist extension necessary. I'm puzzled by the mating of what appears to be a thrusting blade with this form of hilt. Thank you for sharing these with us, Henk. ![]() |
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Houston, TX, USA
Posts: 1,254
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Mind you it's pretty dandy for a backhanded thrust of the sort that can be sent around a sheild.
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,209
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Gentlemen,
First I want to thank you all for your input. I was struck by these three tulwars and the kukri in the box. The other stuff was with it. Jens, For your information, and it is not allowed to mention prices, when I devide the total amount to the 10 pieces I bought I could tell the Mrs. that it was a bargain ![]() Please give me some time to make the pictures you're required. Maybe tonight I have some time to spare or tomorrow. But I will make them. The three copper dots are in a row. From the first dot to the last one, you can divide the distance in three sections. The first dot is under the hilt in the middle of the blade. The second one is two/third lower towards the tip against the back of the blade and the last one is on one/third distance from the previous one in the tip. The first and the last dot are visible on the pics. This one is certainly my favorite, just as the third one is. M.Carter, The hilts are not loose. Only the cap from the second one was conected with a wedge in the pommel. That wedge is gone so i have to try to make a substitute. Maybe a metal one. That's the only point, but all three are battle ready. Rick, All three the blades have been sharpened. The first and the second one on the entire edge. The third one only the point. Just like it was used for fenching. The patina of the first and the second one is "original" and no spurs of varnish or lacquer. The third one is lacquered and should be cleaned. Any ideas what the most safest way is to remove the lacquer? I really wish to threat them as babys. Last but not least, Andrew, The straight bladed one is edged on both sides. As mentioned above it is sharpened on the tip. These kind of blades with such a hilt were called "Firangi" according to Stone. But these weapons used to have a khanda hilt. If i compare a khanda hilt to a tulwar hilt, the main difference is the spike at the end of the pommel. If i look to the end of the pommels of the first and the second one, they are finished off very well with a round knob. It looks to me that some idio... took a metallsaw to cut off the large end because it didn't fit into his ....??? ![]() It's my pleasure to share these ones with you and learn about it. |
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#7 | |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 1,725
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It just seems like an unlikely mating of handle/blade. ![]() |
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#8 | |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 1,725
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#9 | |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Houston, TX, USA
Posts: 1,254
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Interesting the diversity of opinion on the obstructionism or nonobstructionism of the tulwar pommel. If the grip fits your hand (this is after all important), and the pommel hurts you it's because you're using motions meant for/learnt from other swords. you don't snap your wrist when cutting with a tulwar as you can with many swords; you can't. You have to slash; it will not permit a hack. This may be meant to enforce proper cutting for greater affect, but also may foster a technique less liable to damage the wrist and/or lose the sword when cutting from horseback. |
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