My first jezail

Philip · 10th August 2010, 07:45 AM

The slot in the small end of the ramrod was undoubtedly intended for twists of tow, or patches cut from rags, for wiping the bore and applying preservative oil.

Stuck screws are a bane of antique gun repair. Often the slots in the screw heads are so worn that it's hard for a screwdriver to get a good grip. In these cases it would be helpful to "refresh" the slot with a very thin file (gunsmiths and machinists have special screwhead files for this purpose which may be ordered from specialist catalogs). Good screwdrivers are a necessity, for gun work the blades need to be ground with parallel faces (not the usual taper). You can modify a screwdriver yourself with small knife sharpeners embedded with diamond dust (they're made for sportsmen to carry about easily in pocket or tackle-box) if you don't have a set of hollow-ground gunsmith's screwdrivers. Ideally you should have a screwdriver whose blade fits each screw precisely, and with old guns there is no real standardization so the more the merrier. The wonderful thing about the UK is that you can still find those old Victorian-era cabinetmakers drivers with the bulbous wood handles and flat shanks (ideal for putting a wrench to if you need more torque) -- you can get them in second-hand shops for next to nothing and for this purpose they work better than anything made today.

When a screw is stuck it could mean one of two things (1) the threads are rusted and/or (2) the shank is frozen in place by hardened grease. Applying penetrating oils and WD40 can work, although you shouldn't let too much of these soak into wood fibers. Judicious application of heat often does the trick. A propane torch with a tip which brings the flame to a micro tip is handy providing you don't singe any wood. An electric soldering gun often transfers enough heat to either expand the metal enough to "crack" the rust, and soften hardened gunk. Light taps with a brass hammer can also help dislodge rusted threads.

I'm at a loss to explain that odd obstruction at the bottom of your bore. If it were a ball, it should have come out after you pulled the wadding, and before you reached the powder. From your description I imagine a "donut" of some hard stuff that just admits the small end of your ramrod down its center. What is the caliber of the barrel? Do you have a "worm" attachment for your cleaning-rod -- the thing that looks like two heavy corkscrew points turning alongside each other? If you used a worm that's pretty close to your bore diameter, its points should be able to dig into the donut and if it's lead, some telltale shavings should fall out to confirm what the thing really is.

10th August 2010, 07:45 AM	#6
Philip Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: California Posts: 1,036	The slot in the small end of the ramrod was undoubtedly intended for twists of tow, or patches cut from rags, for wiping the bore and applying preservative oil. Stuck screws are a bane of antique gun repair. Often the slots in the screw heads are so worn that it's hard for a screwdriver to get a good grip. In these cases it would be helpful to "refresh" the slot with a very thin file (gunsmiths and machinists have special screwhead files for this purpose which may be ordered from specialist catalogs). Good screwdrivers are a necessity, for gun work the blades need to be ground with parallel faces (not the usual taper). You can modify a screwdriver yourself with small knife sharpeners embedded with diamond dust (they're made for sportsmen to carry about easily in pocket or tackle-box) if you don't have a set of hollow-ground gunsmith's screwdrivers. Ideally you should have a screwdriver whose blade fits each screw precisely, and with old guns there is no real standardization so the more the merrier. The wonderful thing about the UK is that you can still find those old Victorian-era cabinetmakers drivers with the bulbous wood handles and flat shanks (ideal for putting a wrench to if you need more torque) -- you can get them in second-hand shops for next to nothing and for this purpose they work better than anything made today. When a screw is stuck it could mean one of two things (1) the threads are rusted and/or (2) the shank is frozen in place by hardened grease. Applying penetrating oils and WD40 can work, although you shouldn't let too much of these soak into wood fibers. Judicious application of heat often does the trick. A propane torch with a tip which brings the flame to a micro tip is handy providing you don't singe any wood. An electric soldering gun often transfers enough heat to either expand the metal enough to "crack" the rust, and soften hardened gunk. Light taps with a brass hammer can also help dislodge rusted threads. I'm at a loss to explain that odd obstruction at the bottom of your bore. If it were a ball, it should have come out after you pulled the wadding, and before you reached the powder. From your description I imagine a "donut" of some hard stuff that just admits the small end of your ramrod down its center. What is the caliber of the barrel? Do you have a "worm" attachment for your cleaning-rod -- the thing that looks like two heavy corkscrew points turning alongside each other? If you used a worm that's pretty close to your bore diameter, its points should be able to dig into the donut and if it's lead, some telltale shavings should fall out to confirm what the thing really is.