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#1 | |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: PR, USA
Posts: 679
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Albricias, Don Fernando,
I do that routinely to my nazi daggers, and I understand its a common procedure with threaded pommels. Best M Quote:
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: The Sharp end
Posts: 2,928
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Hello Gentlemen, let me answer in turn (and huge thanks to all)
Michael, Thank you for you kind words and advice. The silicon is 'silicon carbide paper' (wet and dry) so just to even out the rust really. the Blade is double edged (definately) although it may have been accentuated by surface loss, the blade is sharp almost all the way up. Jim, Thank you, but we all just follow your lead sir ![]() David, I really don't know to be truthful. ![]() Whatever happens, I need to clean the loose rust off, and conserve it. If I keep it I would do exactly as you say with the handle, but to be honest, I usually find that I can't keep relics for long, I find the condition 'issues' niggle away at me. As for baby Alex, he is still keeping us awake at nights, but he's doing well and is an absolute joy. Thank you for asking ![]() Manuel David meant me, I became a dad 6 months ago for the first time. Philip, Never fear, I don't see any need to remove the pommel from this sword. Nando, A father 32 years ago? Is he sleeping through the night yet? ![]() -After 6 months the sleep depravation seems endless. |
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#3 | |
(deceased)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Portugal
Posts: 9,694
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Hi Gene
Quote:
Sleeping through? always ![]() She was (is) a gift of the Gods ![]() 'Nando |
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#4 | |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: The Sharp end
Posts: 2,928
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Alex is a total blessing, just hard on my sleep. ![]() |
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: California
Posts: 1,036
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Of course, my prior comments on pommel removal were penned with peened-over tangs in mind. If the hilt is held by threaded nuts, then there's no problem with taking off and replacing the components, providing the nuts can be unscrewed without encountering the vexing problem of threads frozen by deep-seated corrosion. You will probably have to improvise your own wrench or spanner if the nut isn't of a size or shape that can be gripped with commonly-available tools. Some pommel nuts are recessed, and are turned via split slots, visible on either side of the threaded bolt which is the end of the tang. A large, wide screwdriver thick enough to fit the slots will do the trick, once the center portion is filed out to clear the tang. Similar split nuts are sometimes encountered on the wooden slab grips of bayonets, cutlasses, and fascine knives (the French were fond of this type of attachment) so you may need to modify a variety of screwdriver sizes to fit these. I like the old-fashioned English-style joiners' or cabinetmakers' screwdrivers, their blades are beefy and well-tempered, and the bulbous wood handles are very ergonomic. Besides, the flattened area at the base of the shank is ideal for attaching a wrench to, so you can generate some awesome torque to back out a stubborn nut or screw.
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