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Originally Posted by GrozaB
Ok, I understand that keris is not Japanese sword and don't have to be polished. But aggressive rust is my mortal enemy. So, I soak blade (after carefully removing handle) in kerosine/oil overnight. Tomorrow I will take toothbrush and will take care of rust. So patina, pamor and texture will stay. Just no more red rust.
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Hi Groza. I just wanted to address this again since you seem to be asking questions here even if you did not use a question mark at the end of your sentences.
The pamor is part of the blade itself. You are not going to remove that with a toothbrush and some oil. I am not sure how you are using the word patina here. If you are referring to the contrasting colors of the blade that is created when the blade is treated with warangan, a combination of arsenic and lime juice. The arsenic reacts with the iron in the blade turning it dark in varying shades dependent upon the content of the various irons used. Nickelous material often used in pamor stays silvery. But this effect has nothing to due with patina. Removing the rust with oil and a toothbrush should not remove this effect nor should it change the texture of the surface. I do recommend that you do all you can to remove
all the rust, not just the active red stuff. This will no doubt take time and repeated attention to the blade. You may find it necessary to pick at some of it with a fine needle under a magnifying glass to remove it all. Work slowly and carefully and this should not damage the blade any. What you have on this blade more than what i would call "patina" is dirt and rust. Removing that should increase the contrast of the pattern and make this blade seem more alive.
Metal fittings should shine on a keris. I wouldn't get too aggressive with that, but the selut/cup at the base of your hilt may be silver and should be polished up a bit. Don't use anything abrasive of course, but a polishing cloth should help it along. And as i stated before, the same goes for the brass pendok on the sheath stem.