oil for keris
 

Will you use this kind of oil on keris, just asking.
Someone told me not to use this oil as it might 'attack' the warangan and nickel pamor. I assume the person is referring to acidic part but i cannot find any source of info about this oil being acidic. And I am very confuse now.


https://www.amazon.com/KUROBARA-Tsub...gateway&sr=8-4

Probably good oil, but I would not use it, simply because I've been using what I currently use for near to 50 years, and I find it perfectly satisfactory.

Thank you. :)

Would advise against using it, as you don't know it's acidity and stability in time. Kerises are not kitchen knives.

In my oppinion, the best choice of oil for long term conservation of any blades, including kerises is pure mineral oil.

My two cents.

Very true, thank you.

And what do you use?
:)

I make up a mix of +/-50% medicinal paraffin or Singer Sewing Machine Oil and +/-45% synthetic sandalwood oil together with +/-5% natural kenanga oil.

I was given this recipe many years ago by a m'ranggi who had descended from a long line of m'ranggis, his family had used this mix for a very long time.

The reason they used synthetic sandalwood oil is because the fragrance was consistent and long term performance was consistent, they had used synthetic oil imported from Germany since before WWII. Synthetic is also cheaper than natural.

In the original recipe they used coconut oil, but coconut oil is a very bad base for keris oil, it goes rancid, it stinks, it solidifies on the blade, it requires constant replacement --- but coconut oil is the most common oil in Central Jawa, so it is easy to get and cheap.

Very interesting! Thank you very much! :)

I no longer apply any scented oil to my kris blades but just treat them once with WD40 or Ballistoil spray for preventing any rust and it lasts for ever (in our rather dry environment).
Regards

At this moment, i am using this type of 'oil' as I lived in Southeast Asia region which is extremely humid. And i find the oil use by Javanese people tends to rather expensive.


https://www.bladehq.com/item--Sentry...Glide-4--63106


So far so good and hopefully it will not damage my keris blade metal and pamor. It seems not made from acidic substance and form a layer that protect the steel from external force.

Actually, I am quite certain that if all we want is metal protection a good quality gun oil will provide far better protection than my home brew keris oil.

I've got about a dozen firearms, and I do not use fragrant oil on them, I use Hoppe's.

However, I live 25 meters from a salt water lake, my house is continually exposed to driving southerly winds, the verandah poles on the front of my house rust out in about 8 or 10 years and need repeated replacement. But the keris & etc that I have used my own oil on do not ever rust, and some of those keris have not been touched in more than ten years.

It goes without saying that I do not store my keris against cellulose material. Wood is a cellulose material. Nobody who has any respect at all for a steel blade should store that blade in such a way that it is in contact with cellulose material. Apart from which, storing an oiled blade in a wooden scabbard is a sure and certain way to stain the wood and eventually damage that wood and the value of the scabbard.

Nor do I display my kerises. I used to, but I found that over time, even with continual dusting, polishing, oiling and waxing, the dress of items I had on display gradually deteriorated. So I took a page out of the Javanese book and began storing my keris in cloth covers and then in chests of drawers.

I am also very committed to the use of plastic sleeves placed over blades.

Just on the off-chance that there might be some sort of something that has made its home in one of my keris, I am sure that it prefers the fragrance of my home brew keris oil to the cutting stink of gun oil. At least, none of those somethings has ever wandered away from its comfortable little home in its keris of choice, and caused me any problems.

That's because you don't have a flying keris!
:p

Now this is very interesting! Never heard of this "Marine Tuf-Glide" and I will try to find out more about it.

On my other blades, I use Renaissance wax.

Yes, microcrystalline wax is pretty much the standard for smooth steel surfaces, I think you will find that most custom knife makers recommend it.