A cup hilt sword ... atypical, for your comments.

ariel · 2nd August 2020, 06:15 PM

Cannot remember where I read it, but one explanation of the wavy contour of the blade allegedly made the blade of the opponent waver and lose direction and speed.

fernando · 2nd August 2020, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ariel

Cannot remember where I read it, but one explanation of the wavy contour of the blade allegedly made the blade of the opponent waver and lose direction and speed.

A serious perspective; certainly plausible ...

ariel · 3rd August 2020, 09:54 AM

Fernando,
Have you tried WD-40 to remove the grip?

fernando · 3rd August 2020, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ariel

Fernando,
Have you tried WD-40 to remove the grip?

I thought of doing that, Ariel but, i left it for a possible new round.
The stuck up is not between two metals but between the steel tang and the wooden grip core; the tang must have 'swollen' with the rusting process.
I wanted to avoid to mess up the area with the penetrating oil; but i will probably give it a try. But above all, i fear for the damage; these things are pretty old and, if we damaged them, they are not the same again.

kronckew · 3rd August 2020, 02:33 PM

WD40 and wood are not a good mix. It dries and leaves a gunky residue when over-applied. There are better oils available from gunsmiths.

I've heard an old 'fix' for a loose grip on a tang with a slightly oversized central grip hole was to paint the tang with a salt and vinegar paste to encourage rust, which increases the size of the tang as rust takes up more space than the steel it used to be.

That is why you can't use water with a high salt content to make reinforced concrete. It rusts the rebar, expands them and the concrete cracks from the outwards force which is quite strong. This lets in more water & the deterioration accelerates.

If it's used on an old somewhat fragile and dry shrunken wood grip, the expansion could crack the wood. medical grade mineral oil/Ballistol would be better, to rehydrate the dry shrunken wood and lube the internal rust that is preventing the disassembly. It's also non-poisonous and food safe unlike WD40. It will discolour light wood tho and you can't varnish over it. It never dries or hardens. Ballistol has a nice aroma, if you like Ouzo liquor (Greek) you might like it's anise aroma. I do.

fernando · 4th August 2020, 08:54 AM

Alright Govenor, Ballistol will be ... when time comes.
But you are wrong in one thing; its aroma stinks

.

Victrix · 4th August 2020, 09:27 AM

I use Ballistol only on guns (with moving parts). I use mineral oil for swords, and when dry I apply Renaissance wax on top. I use walnut oil for wood (butt stocks on guns, wood hilts on swords, poles on polearms).

kronckew · 4th August 2020, 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fernando

Alright Govenor, Ballistol will be ... when time comes.
But you are wrong in one thing; its aroma stinks

.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. It also repels sabre toothed tigers. Haven't seen a single one since I started using Ballistol.

In other words: (use google translate if you don't read Latin.

)

“Quod ali cibus est aliis fuat acre venenum”
-Lucretius, 1st Century BC.

p.s.- Victrix, what are civilian and most old military rifles made of? Last time I owned one it was wood and steel.

2nd August 2020, 06:15 PM	#1
ariel Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Ann Arbor, MI Posts: 5,503	Cannot remember where I read it, but one explanation of the wavy contour of the blade allegedly made the blade of the opponent waver and lose direction and speed.

3rd August 2020, 09:54 AM	#3
ariel Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Ann Arbor, MI Posts: 5,503	Fernando, Have you tried WD-40 to remove the grip?

3rd August 2020, 02:33 PM	#5
kronckew Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Room 101, Glos. UK Posts: 4,230	WD40 and wood are not a good mix. It dries and leaves a gunky residue when over-applied. There are better oils available from gunsmiths. I've heard an old 'fix' for a loose grip on a tang with a slightly oversized central grip hole was to paint the tang with a salt and vinegar paste to encourage rust, which increases the size of the tang as rust takes up more space than the steel it used to be. That is why you can't use water with a high salt content to make reinforced concrete. It rusts the rebar, expands them and the concrete cracks from the outwards force which is quite strong. This lets in more water & the deterioration accelerates. If it's used on an old somewhat fragile and dry shrunken wood grip, the expansion could crack the wood. medical grade mineral oil/Ballistol would be better, to rehydrate the dry shrunken wood and lube the internal rust that is preventing the disassembly. It's also non-poisonous and food safe unlike WD40. It will discolour light wood tho and you can't varnish over it. It never dries or hardens. Ballistol has a nice aroma, if you like Ouzo liquor (Greek) you might like it's anise aroma. I do.

4th August 2020, 08:54 AM	#6
fernando (deceased) Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Portugal Posts: 9,694	Alright Govenor, Ballistol will be ... when time comes. But you are wrong in one thing; its aroma stinks .

4th August 2020, 09:27 AM	#7
Victrix Member Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Sweden Posts: 755	I use Ballistol only on guns (with moving parts). I use mineral oil for swords, and when dry I apply Renaissance wax on top. I use walnut oil for wood (butt stocks on guns, wood hilts on swords, poles on polearms).