![]() |
![]() |
#31 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,272
|
![]()
ibeam
Now here is a picture of the scbbard after restoration. In this work, I cut and stained pieces of wood to match as best as possible the original wood. Some pieces, I had to recarve the design decoration to match that nearest the toe at the bottom and the "wing" at the top left hand to match the lines as best as possible. After all of the piecing and gluing, I wrapped rattan top and bottom. Perfect? - No, but better than the gaping holes that were there (whole chunks missing). The only thing I did to the pommel is replace a small dot of ivory. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#32 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Witness Protection Program
Posts: 1,730
|
![]()
federico,
thx for the link! i'll definitely save that in my favorites. battara, quickrete sure can do some wonders ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#33 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 134
|
![]()
Thank you Battara for sharing your pictures.
Nice job on the scabbard. Very nice Jungayan barung. ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#34 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,272
|
![]()
Your welcome. I am pleased with my barong.
![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#35 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: VISAYAS and MINDANAO
Posts: 169
|
![]()
Spunger, your barong turned out nice! Good job!
Battara, do you have to post pics of that barong of yours? I always get green with envy every time I see it ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#36 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Witness Protection Program
Posts: 1,730
|
![]()
thx zel, learned from the best...
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#37 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 5,503
|
![]()
Wow, this thread went around and around...
Thanks for pointing it out! I have a question about sealing wax. The old one was made on the basis of shellac, ie the same "lac" that was used to secure tulwar handles. Nowadays, all sealing waxes are based on some kind of plastic and are softer and bendable: would obviously not do the job. Or would they? Anybody knows where to get the original dark-brown sealing wax that is shellac-based? Could solids, such as crushed brick or just sand be mixed with it? |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#38 |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Kuwait
Posts: 1,340
|
![]()
Master work!
Jose, you never thought of working on items from other parts of the world? |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#39 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,272
|
![]()
Thank you very much.
I have worked on dhas, tulwars, kukris, Chinese dao, some Turkish stuff, Scottish sgian dubh, and even on US Civil War stuff. Some of what I have worked on has been on this forum, for example: http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showth...hlight=battara http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showth...ttara+koftgari Last edited by Battara; 13th November 2011 at 03:31 AM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#40 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 327
|
![]()
I use jewlers pitch. It is black and looks exactly like what the moros
use. Just heat it up till it's soft and press it in. Unlike expoxy, when the blade is slightly heated the handle can be easily removed........Dave |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|