What kind of oil do you use for your blades?

[Tim Simmons]

Human fat! I love it. Cannot beat it. I rub my favourite Oceanic clubs across my bald head. Am I sick?

[Luc LEFEBVRE]

WD40

[Rick]

That's mainly for water displacement .
WD = water displacement 40 = formula # 40, or fortieth try before they got it right .

It is made from modified fish oil .
Do you apply it frequently ?

[asomotif]

I rub my favourite Oceanic clubs across my bald head. Am I sick?

As long as you "rub" and don't "club" , you should not become sick

This weekend I saw someone rub his NOSE across an brass shield and than start to polish it for the warm glow. So you are not alone.

In the past I have used sewing machine oil, as it has hardly any smell and i easily spread over the surface.
Nowadays I use oil that they sell in bicycle shops to oil your bike and it does pretty much the same, except it smells like oil.

On keris blades that are stored I often apply some acid free vaseline, as oil tends to evaporate, causing you to find a rusty keris blade afte a year or so.

[Maurice]

Originally Posted by asomotif

This weekend I saw someone rub his NOSE across an brass shield and than start to polish it for the warm glow. So you are not alone.

Scary.......I think from now on I first smell at a piece before buying, who knows with what bodypart they rubbed it...

I use ballistol, but it has a typical smell (which I find not disturbing btw).

[Dimasalang]

I use CLP "Collectors". It is thicker and has more rust inhibitors than regular CLP. It is made for long term storage use of collector firearms, but works well on my blades as well. Regular CLP, or any other lube for that matter, will run out or dry out within 2 months...CLP Collectors stays put well beyond 3 months.

I know WD40 is popular, but that stuff is just to stinky for me and attracts way to much dust for my liking.

[ariel]

Renaissance Wax

[ariel]

And, BTW, I just read on the Internet that a gang was arrested in Peru: they killed people to render human fat and sold it to cosmetic companies at a rate of $15,000 per liter.

Next time you buy Chanel #5 to your wife......

[Tim Simmons]

[QUOTE=Maurice]Scary.......I think from now on I first smell at a piece before buying, who knows with what bodypart they rubbed it...

Rather you than me, not nice.

[M ELEY]

For dry, damaged hide/leather or wood, like on hilts and scabbards, i find that linseed oil has an amazing way of re-lusturizing (is that even a word- ) the finish. Also works great on old gun stocks...
Anyone else try this product??

[Philip]

Originally Posted by asomotif

As long as you "rub" and don't "club" , you should not become sick

This weekend I saw someone rub his NOSE across an brass shield and than start to polish it for the warm glow. So you are not alone.

One of my old hunting buddies in Hawaii used to squeeze some body oil from the outside of his nose and rub it on his carbon steel knife blades to prevent rust. I'm not making this up. In the pidgin English we grew up speaking in the Islands, we had the term "hanabata" which was coined by Japanese immigrant field hands on the plantations, literally meaning nose-butter, but most folks took that as meaning the stuff inside the nostrils. Eeeesh.

Personally, I vote for Japanese camellia oil on blades in any sort of polish or exhibiting watered patterns.
On old European blades with normal wear and weathering, wax (Renaissance, or even the old standby Johnson's), works beautifully.

[A. G. Maisey]

Yes, micro-crystalline wax is great for blades with a smooth surface, in fact, it would be great for Balinese finish blades too --- except for the cultural dictates.

[Neil]

Hopps gun oil for me generally speaking on my metal antique weapons.

I have used linseed oil on wood shields I have sealed and it definitely polymerizes over time creating a notable layer.

[Luc LEFEBVRE]

It works really good, protects metal from rust and corrosion.

Originally Posted by Rick

That's mainly for water displacement .
WD = water displacement 40 = formula # 40, or fortieth try before they got it right .

It is made from modified fish oil .
Do you apply it frequently ?

[Jens Nordlunde]

When a blade is clean, I normally use solid car wax.

[Gavin Nugent]

I use WD wonderful for swords, knives and the Harley.
I also use baby oil with good results for the swords too.

Oiling is something that needs to be done often here in QLD as there is a high humidity level and that is bad news when items are left in scabbrds for a long time.

Frequency is another point of discussion that doesn't come up often, what would be considered the right time between oilings relevant to where you live and how you store your collections?

Gav

[Atlantia]

Originally Posted by Luc LEFEBVRE

WD40

Absolutely. Well I tend to use a cheaper mineral oil equivilent from the 'pound shop'.
Clean them good then rub them hard with an aerosol penetrating oil.