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Old 7th August 2009, 07:07 PM   #1
trenchwarfare
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Old 7th August 2009, 08:33 PM   #2
Mark
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This looks like a nicely-made modern daab. I very much doubt it is from China - as has been said there are a number of smiths around Thailand that still make daab. It looks quite solid. Please let us know how it feels once you have it in hand. Not a bad start to sword collecting, I think.
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Old 8th August 2009, 02:22 AM   #3
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I actually have it here with me Very sharp point, good slicing ability from the belly and the rattan wrap looks great. Since it was sent out directly from Chiang Mai, I really doubt it was made in China. It appears to be solid and handles quite well. Interesting point about the habaki--I thought I had quite a traditionally made darb on my hands! Thanks everyone!

BTW, is there any way I can find out what kind of tang this sword has?
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Old 8th August 2009, 03:09 AM   #4
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Try to remove the handle

It's a bit of work unwrapping the rattan, removing the brass ferrule and habaki, and even then the handle might be glued. Ask the seller. If you feel this is a good product and you say so, he shouldn't have any problem answering and giving you other construction details.
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Old 8th August 2009, 02:55 PM   #5
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Thanks Emanuel, but I'd hate to mess the wrap up, so I'll try asking the seller first He seems like a cool guy.

PS: this is me, not the seller The pics of the darb, however, are the sellers', not mine.
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Old 8th August 2009, 07:16 PM   #6
kronckew
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i use a strong magnet on my dhas & darbs, if you slide it along the grip you can feel where it pulls on the tang. another way is to suspend the magnet on a string and move the grip across in front of it from the pommel, it'll start deflecting slightly when you reach the end of the tang.

not all have short stub tangs.

two from aranyik

the top one here has a more traditional stub tang about 4in. long, with a steel rod welded to the end that is threaded to hold the heavy metal pommel. blade is differentially hardened, no habaki. heavy steel bolster to absorb the shock of a cut without breaking the handle.

bottom one has a broad tang that extends most of the grip and is pinned in two places with1/4 in. steel pins, again the end has a small rod welded to it to hold the steel pommel. again no habaki and a very thick steel bolster. this one is built to take it. again, a differentially hardened steel blade, but this one was professionally polished.

traditional dha/darb with 3-4in blind stub tangs worked on the battlefield for centuries, i'd not be afraid of using one like that, as long as the resin was in good shape...

i've also seen them where the tang is actually a rod welded to the ricasso of the blade and ground down. avoid them like the plague. they can break under light handling and the flying blade knows no mercy.

p.s. - nice picture of the wielder. the dha/darb is usually a one handed weapon, the long grip is used as a balance, and is normally held just behind the bolster. draw cuts are more normal as opposed to heavy chopping. they are designed for unarmoured or lightly armoured opponents in lightweight clothing. cutting down a tree is also not recommended.

Last edited by kronckew; 8th August 2009 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 9th August 2009, 01:09 AM   #7
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Hi kronckew,

Nice darbs I have some strong magnets lying around so I'll try to work out what kind of tang I have later. That's a great idea (and one I never would have thought of). Thanks.

The wielder in the pic is me. I realize the darb is a one-handed weapon in most cases, and I also realize it is best used in a draw cut--trying to chop through a water bottle with it did not work, but it cuts like a razor.
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