It's pointed...its metal...but not quite a weapon.

Jim McDougall · 19th August 2008, 04:44 PM

LOL!! That is great David! Love the analogy about Wile Coyote and the roadrunner

We're in the desert outside Tucson right now, and there are coyotes serenading at night, and the roadrunners are indeed very strange birds. I do recall good ole Wile with his trusty anvil, and now I'll be watching for one of these critters dragging an anvil

Really interesting piece, and I really like your approach to the hands on facet on sword study. I have never fully grasped the metallurgy end of things, and really admire those here who are so well versed in that perspective. It definitely adds new dimension in understanding and evaluating the weapons.

I think you and Fernando bring neverending fascination into these threads with the incredibly eclectic things you guys find! Somehow it makes the discussions more three dimensional. Thank you!

All the best,
Jim

Atlantia · 19th August 2008, 06:13 PM

P.S.

Love the 'Stonehenge' rollers moving method!

A. G. Maisey · 20th August 2008, 09:10 AM

Looks like you scored well here.

Best anvil I ever used was one at Hawkesbury Agricultural College, when I was being taught by Gordon Blackwell. Beautiful old English one, 350pounds, and had almost no work since the day it had been made.

You get a good big anvil, it does half the work for you.

My own anvil is only 75 kilos, and made in Singapore. Not much of an anvil, but it does the job. I've got another little no-name anvil that I've had the work table precision ground on, that I can use for getting blades really true.

How do you intend to mount this anvil? Might be a bit difficult to get a big enough hardwood stump. The stump needs to support the full base, and should go about 3 feet into the ground. You set the anvil height so that when you stand beside it with a clenched fist, your knuckles just brush the work table.

The whole thing needs to be square, and the horn goes to your left.

Anyway, nice anvil.

katana · 20th August 2008, 07:01 PM

Thank you all for your comments.

Atlantia, the ancient technological 'rollers' work a treat

This 'beasty' was down in a household cellar....and was a logistic nightmare to get out, a 'counter balanced hoist', make-shift supports and alot of grunting ...eventually 'eased' the anvil through a small window

Ah, the neighbours, fortunately they are used to my 'eccentricities'....but I will have to 'limit' the noise pollution : ....well I'll try

Apparently attaching large magnets (either end) and placing heavy chain around its 'waist' helps to greatly reduce vibration.

My forge is 'under construction', I'm using a cast iron BBQ which I will line with refractory, a steel pipe will be fitted (drilled) to direct air. I have already got a little compressor to provide the 'blow'. I have already started to search 'boot fairs' and already have a number of hammers, files etc (all dirt cheap

)

Hi A G Maisey,

this anvil is around 250kgs ( 519 lbs) in weight

the largest I have found in this pattern, so far, is actually smaller than mine.
The anvil's manufacturer is 'Peter Wright' , so the anvil is circa 1860....I do not know when they ceased trading. It also seems that 'Peter Wright' produced quality anvils that are still covetted today. (I found a web site dated 2003 that was offering a 350lbs version for $1400

) It has a lovely 'ring' and rebound. I was going to mount it on railway sleepers. I dont think I will be able to sink the base 3 foot though, I think it will be a case of trail and error getting the platform and sound deadening 'measures' sorted. Have you ever posted any of your work ? I would love to see a few pictures

Kind Regards David

Atlantia · 20th August 2008, 07:47 PM

Its a beauty David!
How the hell did you come by it? LOL, did the seller deliver? I know the ancient Celts ran the Stonehenge sarcens down from Wales on rollers but.........
;-)

Regards
Gene

lemmythesmith · 20th August 2008, 08:19 PM

Hi David, nice anvil!! About the size I had when I had a proper shop not just 10' by 7' in a garage! The anvil I use now for bladesmithing is one I made myself from scrap, last thing I ever made using my power hammer before I sold up-weighs about 70lb so I can move it about no problem. If you make a block from sleepers it will be enough to stabilize your anvil without sinking a foundation. Thick lead sheet under the anvil base can help with noise reduction. My forge is fabricated from sheet, air blast supplied by a car radiator fan (with extra fins) mounted on the shaft of a bench grinder then covered by a tupperware cake container-crude but it works!! The tuyere is made from 50mm plates with 20mm holes through them then welded together.
Here's some pics from sunny Wigan, Lancashire...

A. G. Maisey · 21st August 2008, 12:42 AM

My forge is a truck wheel, and the the blower is an old vacuum cleaner.Its lined with just ordinary garden earth, which is fine for general forging, but if welding, it is a bit easier if you create a fire hole using fire bricks, but its not essential, no matter what you use to line the forge, you're going to get clinker, so you just need to learn how to manage the fire. The earth is pretty clayey, so it bakes up hard anyway.Use fire bricks, and they do burn out and need replacing fairly regularly, use earth and you just pick up a bit from the garden. If you're welding, you need a good depth of fire between the job and the tuyere.

If you cannot get it properly mounted on a stump, you might like to consider sitting it in a bed of sand. I've never used this, but I know people who have, and they reckon it cuts noise down pretty well. A properly mounted anvil---on a stump--- really doesn't create much noise at all.Think about it:- what you are hitting is material that is already soft because its been in the fire, its not like you're actually hitting the anvil. When you're working at black heat there might be a bit of noise, but its not really excessive. You're going to be using 2lb and 4lb hammers mostly, and if you have a striker, maybe a 10 or 12 lb hammer, and you're using them on a big anvil. That's a lot different to using an oliver or a power hammer.Put it this way:- your blower will probably make more noise, and whatever you do, it won't be as bad as one of those blower things people use to clean up leaves.

Here are some keris blades I've made.

Scroll down to my name and click on the index pics.

http://www.kerisattosanaji.com/PBXIIempus.html

katana · 22nd August 2008, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Atlantia

Its a beauty David!
How the hell did you come by it? LOL, did the seller deliver? I know the ancient Celts ran the Stonehenge sarcens down from Wales on rollers but.........
;-)

Regards
Gene

Hi Gene,
would you believe I got the anvil for FREE

The 'cost' was ...for me to organise and plan to remove it from a house cellar, the hire of a suitable hoist, 'convincing' a number of family members to help me, car ramps, timber, two cars, a small trailer, 2 gallons of sweat and an aching jaw (because of the permanent 'grin' on my face)......a SMALL price to pay. I know I am incredibily lucky and the previous owners generosity (a rare commodity) is greatly appreciated.

Thor must have been smiling on me that day.

The scaffold pole rollers were indeed inspired by our ancient forefathers and work perfectly.

Kind Regards David

20th August 2008, 08:19 PM	#6
lemmythesmith Member Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 93	Hi David, nice anvil!! About the size I had when I had a proper shop not just 10' by 7' in a garage! The anvil I use now for bladesmithing is one I made myself from scrap, last thing I ever made using my power hammer before I sold up-weighs about 70lb so I can move it about no problem. If you make a block from sleepers it will be enough to stabilize your anvil without sinking a foundation. Thick lead sheet under the anvil base can help with noise reduction. My forge is fabricated from sheet, air blast supplied by a car radiator fan (with extra fins) mounted on the shaft of a bench grinder then covered by a tupperware cake container-crude but it works!! The tuyere is made from 50mm plates with 20mm holes through them then welded together. Here's some pics from sunny Wigan, Lancashire... Attached Images

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19th August 2008, 04:44 PM	#1
Jim McDougall Arms Historian Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Route 66 Posts: 10,581	LOL!! That is great David! Love the analogy about Wile Coyote and the roadrunner We're in the desert outside Tucson right now, and there are coyotes serenading at night, and the roadrunners are indeed very strange birds. I do recall good ole Wile with his trusty anvil, and now I'll be watching for one of these critters dragging an anvil Really interesting piece, and I really like your approach to the hands on facet on sword study. I have never fully grasped the metallurgy end of things, and really admire those here who are so well versed in that perspective. It definitely adds new dimension in understanding and evaluating the weapons. I think you and Fernando bring neverending fascination into these threads with the incredibly eclectic things you guys find! Somehow it makes the discussions more three dimensional. Thank you! All the best, Jim

19th August 2008, 06:13 PM	#2
Atlantia Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: The Sharp end Posts: 2,928	P.S. Love the 'Stonehenge' rollers moving method!

20th August 2008, 09:10 AM	#3
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,056	Looks like you scored well here. Best anvil I ever used was one at Hawkesbury Agricultural College, when I was being taught by Gordon Blackwell. Beautiful old English one, 350pounds, and had almost no work since the day it had been made. You get a good big anvil, it does half the work for you. My own anvil is only 75 kilos, and made in Singapore. Not much of an anvil, but it does the job. I've got another little no-name anvil that I've had the work table precision ground on, that I can use for getting blades really true. How do you intend to mount this anvil? Might be a bit difficult to get a big enough hardwood stump. The stump needs to support the full base, and should go about 3 feet into the ground. You set the anvil height so that when you stand beside it with a clenched fist, your knuckles just brush the work table. The whole thing needs to be square, and the horn goes to your left. Anyway, nice anvil.

20th August 2008, 07:01 PM	#4
katana Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Kent Posts: 2,658	Thank you all for your comments. Atlantia, the ancient technological 'rollers' work a treat This 'beasty' was down in a household cellar....and was a logistic nightmare to get out, a 'counter balanced hoist', make-shift supports and alot of grunting ...eventually 'eased' the anvil through a small window Ah, the neighbours, fortunately they are used to my 'eccentricities'....but I will have to 'limit' the noise pollution : ....well I'll try Apparently attaching large magnets (either end) and placing heavy chain around its 'waist' helps to greatly reduce vibration. My forge is 'under construction', I'm using a cast iron BBQ which I will line with refractory, a steel pipe will be fitted (drilled) to direct air. I have already got a little compressor to provide the 'blow'. I have already started to search 'boot fairs' and already have a number of hammers, files etc (all dirt cheap ) Hi A G Maisey, this anvil is around 250kgs ( 519 lbs) in weight the largest I have found in this pattern, so far, is actually smaller than mine. The anvil's manufacturer is 'Peter Wright' , so the anvil is circa 1860....I do not know when they ceased trading. It also seems that 'Peter Wright' produced quality anvils that are still covetted today. (I found a web site dated 2003 that was offering a 350lbs version for $1400 ) It has a lovely 'ring' and rebound. I was going to mount it on railway sleepers. I dont think I will be able to sink the base 3 foot though, I think it will be a case of trail and error getting the platform and sound deadening 'measures' sorted. Have you ever posted any of your work ? I would love to see a few pictures Kind Regards David

20th August 2008, 07:47 PM	#5
Atlantia Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: The Sharp end Posts: 2,928	Its a beauty David! How the hell did you come by it? LOL, did the seller deliver? I know the ancient Celts ran the Stonehenge sarcens down from Wales on rollers but......... ;-) Regards Gene

21st August 2008, 12:42 AM	#7
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,056	My forge is a truck wheel, and the the blower is an old vacuum cleaner.Its lined with just ordinary garden earth, which is fine for general forging, but if welding, it is a bit easier if you create a fire hole using fire bricks, but its not essential, no matter what you use to line the forge, you're going to get clinker, so you just need to learn how to manage the fire. The earth is pretty clayey, so it bakes up hard anyway.Use fire bricks, and they do burn out and need replacing fairly regularly, use earth and you just pick up a bit from the garden. If you're welding, you need a good depth of fire between the job and the tuyere. If you cannot get it properly mounted on a stump, you might like to consider sitting it in a bed of sand. I've never used this, but I know people who have, and they reckon it cuts noise down pretty well. A properly mounted anvil---on a stump--- really doesn't create much noise at all.Think about it:- what you are hitting is material that is already soft because its been in the fire, its not like you're actually hitting the anvil. When you're working at black heat there might be a bit of noise, but its not really excessive. You're going to be using 2lb and 4lb hammers mostly, and if you have a striker, maybe a 10 or 12 lb hammer, and you're using them on a big anvil. That's a lot different to using an oliver or a power hammer.Put it this way:- your blower will probably make more noise, and whatever you do, it won't be as bad as one of those blower things people use to clean up leaves. Here are some keris blades I've made. Scroll down to my name and click on the index pics. http://www.kerisattosanaji.com/PBXIIempus.html