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#1 | |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 143
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regards chief |
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#2 | |
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Keris forum moderator
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 7,250
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#3 | |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 143
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#4 | |
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Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The Aussie Bush
Posts: 4,515
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#5 | |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 143
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what else would you recommend to etch it ? regards chief |
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#6 |
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EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,342
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On this nice Sulu early kris, I would try ferrous cloride etchant next.
Another possibility is that it is not laminated after all. I have a 18c blade which is also Sulu (perhaps Tawi-Tawi) and it does not show any laminations either, never mind twist core. |
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 478
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Yeah this type is a conundrum, every one of this type I saw was a twist core until it wasn't. Still they are my favorite types to collect. They are very old and as far as I can tell there have been few to no copies of this type in the recent past. I say few just to cover myself, I have never seen a modern copy. So they are old and a very nice edition to your collection. Congrats.
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#8 | |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 143
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i do like this little sword whether its laminated twist core or not its a very tactile piece
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,255
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I agree that a few more rounds of etching are likely to reveal some laminations. No twistcore, I’d guess though.
While phosphoric acid may be safer for a permanent etch (BTW, what concentration is given on your bottle, Dave?), ferric chloride yields a strong contrast for an exploratory etch of a not fully polished surface ; be careful though since it tends to promote ongoing corrosion: I’d just etch a window along the middle of the blade first. The final approach will depend on the outcome. Regards, Kai |
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