Scottish Late 18th Century Blade - Tempered?

kronckew · 15th December 2018, 10:43 AM

You are again confusing heat treatment's HARDENING phase with tempering.

Hardening is done from the critical temperature where the steel is no longer magnetic, it varies on the steel composition a bit, 800 is just an approximation.

Tempering is indeed done at a much lower temperature in the range you mentioned to relieve brittleness and give a softer but tougher structure as a final phase.

Using the term 'Tempering' to cover both phases is inaccurate. Differential heat treating where a blade is hardened at the edge and self tempered at the spine is a technique used by some experienced bladesmiths mostly with varying results.

The live slave thing is of course a myth, but corpses would be readily available.

Helleri · 16th December 2018, 12:24 AM

Sorry I actually just misread what you wrote regarding hardening vs. tempering.

Battara · 16th December 2018, 01:02 AM

The blade seemed to be moderately hard but not brittle. After I did some more research and read your comments here, I slowly and carefully bent the steel blade back into straight form without snapping it.

So I did not need to reheat but will keep this as a second option should I get into a similar situation.

Again many thanks to all of you for your input.

The first picture is how I got the blade which was roughly 20 degrees off center.

The second picture is after I worked on it, which is now roughly straight.

Battara · 16th December 2018, 01:07 AM

I was debating on brazing the crack with silver, but have decided to leave it as is for now. The blade is from a cut down Scottish or English sword.

For more pictures, here is the thread: http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=24495

16th December 2018, 01:02 AM	#3
Battara EAAF Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 7,272	The blade seemed to be moderately hard but not brittle. After I did some more research and read your comments here, I slowly and carefully bent the steel blade back into straight form without snapping it. So I did not need to reheat but will keep this as a second option should I get into a similar situation. Again many thanks to all of you for your input. The first picture is how I got the blade which was roughly 20 degrees off center. The second picture is after I worked on it, which is now roughly straight. Attached Images

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search
Display Modes
Switch to Linear Mode Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

15th December 2018, 10:43 AM	#1
kronckew Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Room 101, Glos. UK Posts: 4,216	You are again confusing heat treatment's HARDENING phase with tempering. Hardening is done from the critical temperature where the steel is no longer magnetic, it varies on the steel composition a bit, 800 is just an approximation. Tempering is indeed done at a much lower temperature in the range you mentioned to relieve brittleness and give a softer but tougher structure as a final phase. Using the term 'Tempering' to cover both phases is inaccurate. Differential heat treating where a blade is hardened at the edge and self tempered at the spine is a technique used by some experienced bladesmiths mostly with varying results. The live slave thing is of course a myth, but corpses would be readily available.

16th December 2018, 12:24 AM	#2
Helleri Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Chino, CA. Posts: 219	Sorry I actually just misread what you wrote regarding hardening vs. tempering.

16th December 2018, 01:07 AM	#4
Battara EAAF Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 7,272	I was debating on brazing the crack with silver, but have decided to leave it as is for now. The blade is from a cut down Scottish or English sword. For more pictures, here is the thread: http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=24495