Etching Blades

Rivkin · 3rd December 2004, 05:10 AM

No, afaik, you don't use an etchant on japanese blades. Polishing them is a royal pain.

Federico · 3rd December 2004, 05:21 AM

NEVER EVER EVER USE A HIGH SPEED BUFFER ON AN ANTIQUE BLADE. If the blade is pattern welded, the buffer will seal the grain, causing not only the pattern to be hidden by the high polish, but can also prevent the blade from etching correctly. A high speed buffer will also round crisp lines. Also, the high heat generated from a high speed buffer can destroy the temper of an antique sword. Particularly for a really old sword, the hardness may not be all that high in the first place, the heat from the buffer can potentially turn a sword into decorative metal. Also heat related effects, especially the hamon in japanese swords, can thus be destroyed. Given the price and tradition of Japanese sword polishing, only trust a proper sword polisher, and do not attempt at polishing it yourself. Polishing, is not buffing, but rather a process of sharpening the sword itself, and thus there is great potential to change the lines of the sword. Realistically, I dont recommend polishing any blade because of the potential of being overly zealous and completely destroying the original lines of a piece.

donutsrule · 3rd December 2004, 10:35 PM

Do you think a very mild polishing compound like MAAS might be too much for the grain on a kris? I have a total basketcase project kris that was cracked in the middle and brazed

and scorched

and allowed to rust in spots. I used MAAS on one side (haven't touched the other side yet) to take off active rust and scorching.

I have 0000 steel wool and (I think) ~2000 grit sandpaper at home. Should I go back over the blade with one of those before attempting to vinegar etch? Despite what the blade has gone through, it's an old one and I think the pattern will turn out quite nice (brass bits notwithstanding).

I've taken some digital pics, but haven't had the time to upload them to anything yet.
Thx.

Ferguson · 4th December 2004, 12:25 AM

Good thread. Excellent information.

Steve

Federico · 4th December 2004, 06:56 AM

Realistically, a hand rubbed polish will probably not smear the grain in the same manner as a high-speed buffer. But then again, there is always the why take the chance factor. What I would be more worried about are all the "protective" chemical residues some polishes leave. They can be a bear to remove, and sometimes require alot more sanding just to get rid of. Notorious for ruining antiques is Brasso, screws up brass patina, and the chemicals in it cause brass to corrode in a bad color (Im sure you've probably seen the chalky white icky effect on a brasso cleaned piece of brass that has been left to sit for a while). I worry about the same thing happening on the steel. Then again, there are chances nothing would happen. I personally wouldnt bother with the potential headache.

As for etching a blade polished with a compound, you could go ahead and try. Ive never used MAAS, so I dont know what kind of gunk it coats the blade with. Degrease, and keep an eye on it. In this case I would recommend stopping the etch if it starts to look funky. Sometimes, if the grain is sealed all that is needed to re-open the pattern is etching, sometimes a little sanding helps.

Mare Rosu · 4th December 2004, 12:42 PM

I agree with Ferguson this is one good thread and I am learning a lot.
Question: has anyone used an ultrasonic cleaner on an old blade to get it ready for an acid etch? I have used one at work on Radioactive contaminated tools to remove the contamination. All I used was just deionized water in the tank and it cleaned up the tools just fine.
Also what is MAAS?
Thanks

4th December 2004, 12:42 PM	#6
Mare Rosu Deceased Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: USA, DEEP SOUTH, GEORGIA, Y'all hear? Posts: 121	Questions I agree with Ferguson this is one good thread and I am learning a lot. Question: has anyone used an ultrasonic cleaner on an old blade to get it ready for an acid etch? I have used one at work on Radioactive contaminated tools to remove the contamination. All I used was just deionized water in the tank and it cleaned up the tools just fine. Also what is MAAS? Thanks

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3rd December 2004, 05:10 AM	#1
Rivkin Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 655	No, afaik, you don't use an etchant on japanese blades. Polishing them is a royal pain.

3rd December 2004, 05:21 AM	#2
Federico Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Minneapolis, MN, USA Posts: 312	NEVER EVER EVER USE A HIGH SPEED BUFFER ON AN ANTIQUE BLADE. If the blade is pattern welded, the buffer will seal the grain, causing not only the pattern to be hidden by the high polish, but can also prevent the blade from etching correctly. A high speed buffer will also round crisp lines. Also, the high heat generated from a high speed buffer can destroy the temper of an antique sword. Particularly for a really old sword, the hardness may not be all that high in the first place, the heat from the buffer can potentially turn a sword into decorative metal. Also heat related effects, especially the hamon in japanese swords, can thus be destroyed. Given the price and tradition of Japanese sword polishing, only trust a proper sword polisher, and do not attempt at polishing it yourself. Polishing, is not buffing, but rather a process of sharpening the sword itself, and thus there is great potential to change the lines of the sword. Realistically, I dont recommend polishing any blade because of the potential of being overly zealous and completely destroying the original lines of a piece.

3rd December 2004, 10:35 PM	#3
donutsrule Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 11	Do you think a very mild polishing compound like MAAS might be too much for the grain on a kris? I have a total basketcase project kris that was cracked in the middle and brazed and scorched and allowed to rust in spots. I used MAAS on one side (haven't touched the other side yet) to take off active rust and scorching. I have 0000 steel wool and (I think) ~2000 grit sandpaper at home. Should I go back over the blade with one of those before attempting to vinegar etch? Despite what the blade has gone through, it's an old one and I think the pattern will turn out quite nice (brass bits notwithstanding). I've taken some digital pics, but haven't had the time to upload them to anything yet. Thx.

4th December 2004, 12:25 AM	#4
Ferguson Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Kernersville, NC, USA Posts: 793	Good thread. Excellent information. Steve

4th December 2004, 06:56 AM	#5
Federico Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Minneapolis, MN, USA Posts: 312	Realistically, a hand rubbed polish will probably not smear the grain in the same manner as a high-speed buffer. But then again, there is always the why take the chance factor. What I would be more worried about are all the "protective" chemical residues some polishes leave. They can be a bear to remove, and sometimes require alot more sanding just to get rid of. Notorious for ruining antiques is Brasso, screws up brass patina, and the chemicals in it cause brass to corrode in a bad color (Im sure you've probably seen the chalky white icky effect on a brasso cleaned piece of brass that has been left to sit for a while). I worry about the same thing happening on the steel. Then again, there are chances nothing would happen. I personally wouldnt bother with the potential headache. As for etching a blade polished with a compound, you could go ahead and try. Ive never used MAAS, so I dont know what kind of gunk it coats the blade with. Degrease, and keep an eye on it. In this case I would recommend stopping the etch if it starts to look funky. Sometimes, if the grain is sealed all that is needed to re-open the pattern is etching, sometimes a little sanding helps.