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#1 | |
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![]() I also think the appearance of wootz is given by very fine pattern welding since the streaks of patternig are much too long and run more or less paralel to eachother. ![]() Last edited by mariusgmioc; 20th July 2016 at 02:21 PM. |
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#2 | |
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By the way, yours is a very nice example, you are on a winning streak lately. Last edited by estcrh; 20th July 2016 at 10:02 PM. |
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#3 | |
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#4 | |
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#5 | |
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I'm very much impressed by the "confusing" blade as it is an exceptional example of genuine Afghan (I assume) craftmanship. Of course it isn't displaying the skill one can see in the Persian or Indian blades, but it definitely is the work of a quite skilled local swordsmith. Making such a pattern welded blade is no small acomplishment! Regards, Marius |
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#6 | |
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I confess to not knowing what style of wootz is the blade...maybe as you point out. The pearl slots are empty...but the access holes into which the pearls are placed are visible... I assume the pearls fell out of this one... |
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#7 |
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I cant see where the steel bearings/perls/rubies should be added, and there they should have rolled.
If they had been there, it would have been very clear to see where the bearings once had rolled. Mostly the bearings were added from the top of the blade, and the holes sealed, before the hilt was mounted. The bearings could also be added from the back of the blade, near the hilt. A small hole was drilled, the bearings added, and the hole closed with a screw or sealed. |
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#8 |
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Tears of the wounded.
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#9 | |
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I think you are taking the round technological holes at the endings of the fullers as access holes. If you examine the photos more carefully, you may notice there is absolutely no space in the fullers to hold anything, and the round holes at the end of the fullers where made there simply to facilitate the chiseling of the fullers and give them a round, well defined and precise ending. When chiselling the fullers, it is very easy to precisely control the starting point as it is the point where you place the chisel and start applying the force. However, it is rather difficult to control the ending point since the application of force on the chisel cannot be stopped with sufficient precision. Therefore, the necessity to have some holes drilled where the fullers should end, in order to use them as "chisel stoppers." That's why the fullers have those holes at only one end. Of course the problem of giving the fuller a precise stop can also be handled by starting the chiselling from both ends. Another explanation may be that the fullers were not chiseled at all but they were milled along the blade with a rotating power tool. In that case, the holes would mark the entry point of the milling cutter. If this is the case, then the whole blade is nothing but a modern reproduction... ... and now... after giving you this explanation, I became quite sure the fullers were milled with a power tool, and not chiseled in the traditional way. The fact they are not straight and their depth varies considerably, seems to point in that direction. My conclusion: the blade is a modern fake! Besides, the grooves for the "tears of the wounded" were normally chisseld through the whole thickness of the blade, so they were piercing the blade from side to side. Regards, Marius Last edited by mariusgmioc; 21st July 2016 at 04:34 PM. |
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#10 | |
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I don't quite follow your theory on the fake nature of the blade...The slots are hand grouted thus not 100% aligned. I will place tears of the wounded ...blades ...below ... Thank you for the post...very interesting. See http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=6912 |
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#11 | |
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#12 |
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I believe that the grooves were milled with a rotating mill mounted in a hand held power tool or the rotating mill was mounted in a fixed drilling/milling machine, and the blade was moved along the machine table.
That's why the inconsistecy in the depth of the grooves and that's why they are not straight. Last, not least, that's why you have the round entry points of the milling tool at the beginning of the grooves. It is very easy to chisel straight grooves, and it is very easy to control their depth if you chisel them by hand. The natural movement of the chisel is in straight lines, and you can repeat the chiselling operation until you reach the desired depth. Try doing the same with a small ball-point end-mill mounted in a hand held power tool and you will know what I mean! I may not know much about antique weapons but I certainly know something about mechanical machining. ![]() |
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#13 | |
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And where did you see the "old resin?" I cannot find a single photo showing the joint between the blade and the hilt. The only photos that show some resin are those of my sword. ![]() Last edited by mariusgmioc; 21st July 2016 at 05:53 PM. |
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#14 | |
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#15 |
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It IS old :-)))))))
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#16 | |
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The steel of the hilt also appears to be artificially aged with spots of very recent and active red rust. I also stand by my conclusion that the blade is a dud. And I explained why. Try chiseling a straight groove and a curved one and will see what I mean. You basically have to struggle a lot with the chisel if you purportedly want curved grooves like those on the blade. Straight grooves come out naturally. Moreover, in order to mill the grooves the way they are, the steel of the blade has to be very soft to the point of being iron and that's why I think this blade couldn't stand a single blow without bending. I would like to hear the opinion of a skilled bladesmith in this matter. |
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#17 |
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Sometimes the slots were in the hilt...
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#18 | |
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![]() Do you have a photo of the whole thing? |
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#19 | |
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