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Old 13th August 2012, 10:08 AM   #1
kai
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Hello Wouter,

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To remove the shellack I would use paintremover; a tin of fluid acid that only reacts on the chemical lack but not with the organic material! Doesnt cost much and is bit acid to the skin (!). Apply richly to the handle >no worries< and wait (sometimes it take a while before working) and perhaps best is to whipe it off carefully with tissue in combi with an extra soft toothbrush for the holes etc. Or wash it quickly off with hot water (n toothbrush) and dry immediately after with tissue. Water will probably take more patine off than the 'dry tissue-whipe' method.
I am not a professional conservateur but this sounds pretty terrifying! I don't think any chemical paint remover should be used on any antique unless it has been proven to be harmless (long-term preservation rather than just cosmetic short-term appearance) on all materials involved.

Detlef, shellac is easily soluble in ethanol which will be much gentler to wood but still suck out some oils. What do you wish to remove, exactly?

Regards,
Kai
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Old 13th August 2012, 02:37 PM   #2
Sajen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kai
Hello Wouter,


I am not a professional conservateur but this sounds pretty terrifying! I don't think any chemical paint remover should be used on any antique unless it has been proven to be harmless (long-term preservation rather than just cosmetic short-term appearance) on all materials involved.

Detlef, shellac is easily soluble in ethanol which will be much gentler to wood but still suck out some oils. What do you wish to remove, exactly?

Regards,
Kai

Hello Kai,

I am with you, I am afraid to use paint remover!

Look to the description from the seller. He states that the complete barong is covered with shellac which I plan to remove.

Regards,

Detlef
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Old 13th August 2012, 03:19 PM   #3
Rick
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Detlef, was I you I would only try to remove the 'shellac' from the exposed parts of the silver Punto .

You get into that wood and fiber with solvent and you will have a real mess on your hands .

Wood alchohol will remove the stuff from the silver with patience and a little rubbing .
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Old 14th August 2012, 09:34 PM   #4
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Hi all, yes paintremover is quite an agressive stuff, but that is also the good think about it! One doesnt need to rub and brush and use substances that penetrate the wood etc!!!
It will just only affect the shellack and NOT the wood or organic matter and also patine. (it is like a siliconejam you put on top and does NOT penetrate materials)
Meaning; one does not need to rub and brush the piece thoroughly and therefore rubbing off patine and destroying the dried out materials under.

Yes I have used this myself quite often and I mostly clean it off just putting the object -already having the remover doing its work- under the (semi)hot running water and a very soft brush and dry it immediately after.
Bit slight oiling of the wood and you'l see the piece come to life.

Any method will take some patine off and -as a 'patineman' myself- I think this is the savest way to preserve any of that.

Even if you have never dealt with it before it is quite safe but just dont put it on your hands or eyes and it does have a 'stingy' gas coming from it. But can easily and without damage be put on organic materials and be whiped away.

You are becoming a handyman, arent you?!? He he. Good luck with any method you choose.
Best, Wouter
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Old 14th August 2012, 11:05 PM   #5
Lee
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Shellac will quickly dissolve in ordinary rubbing alcohol (70% isopropyl). So you could cautiously try a bit of that; if it does not dissolve it, then it is likely lacquer or another modern coating that will require a more powerful solvent.
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Old 16th August 2012, 04:52 PM   #6
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Thank you all for your inputs, when I have received it I will try at first to clean it with isopropyl carefully at some points to see how it works. Will keep you updated.
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Old 11th March 2018, 07:08 PM   #7
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I've now can post first pictures of my restore work!

I was able to remove most of the coating with acetone, no other solution want to work. I've fixed carefully the opened scabbard and started to polish the blade, one side is nearly finished with 180 grit and show already a hardened edge. The handle ferrule is worked from white brass. Here some pictures.
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