magnificant jambiya - translation needed

archer · 30th May 2011, 07:45 AM

Hi Jose, I should have mentioned the use of heat sinks. Large metal against the blade, also have used wet rags near the site to quench extra heat. JB weld is an excellent epoxy for the job. Wouldn't tinned solder melt at much lower temps than gold? Steve

TimW · 31st May 2011, 09:59 AM

Hy all

I did not touch the knife yet: want to think it over before screwing things up. Brazing is not an option (temp is too high); soldering could work (180 °C with blade compeletly immersed in water); drilling and inserting a rod could work too. The tang is removed from the handle. A friend suggested very controlled / precise TIG welding (he knows a guy that could do it for me).

If i get it fixed, i'll let you know the result.

Thx for the interest.

David · 31st May 2011, 01:54 PM

If you decide to go with the cold method i have personally had very good results with JB Weld.
I do really wonder how the tang of such a fine blade got broken in the first place. This isn't exactly the kind of blade you'd expect to see someone using in combat.

A. G. Maisey · 31st May 2011, 02:42 PM

This is the first time I have seen this thread.

Please tell me the thickness of the thickest part of the blade where it is broken, and the thickness of the blade where it is broken, and the width of the undecorated section of the blade where it is broken.

What I would like to know is the actual accurate dimensions of the part of the blade that you have available to fix a substitute tang to.

30th May 2011, 07:45 AM	#1
archer Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 373	Heat Sinks Hi Jose, I should have mentioned the use of heat sinks. Large metal against the blade, also have used wet rags near the site to quench extra heat. JB weld is an excellent epoxy for the job. Wouldn't tinned solder melt at much lower temps than gold? Steve

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31st May 2011, 09:59 AM	#2
TimW Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Posts: 54	Hy all I did not touch the knife yet: want to think it over before screwing things up. Brazing is not an option (temp is too high); soldering could work (180 °C with blade compeletly immersed in water); drilling and inserting a rod could work too. The tang is removed from the handle. A friend suggested very controlled / precise TIG welding (he knows a guy that could do it for me). If i get it fixed, i'll let you know the result. Thx for the interest.

31st May 2011, 01:54 PM	#3
David Keris forum moderator Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Nova Scotia Posts: 7,241	If you decide to go with the cold method i have personally had very good results with JB Weld. I do really wonder how the tang of such a fine blade got broken in the first place. This isn't exactly the kind of blade you'd expect to see someone using in combat.

31st May 2011, 02:42 PM	#4
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,067	This is the first time I have seen this thread. Please tell me the thickness of the thickest part of the blade where it is broken, and the thickness of the blade where it is broken, and the width of the undecorated section of the blade where it is broken. What I would like to know is the actual accurate dimensions of the part of the blade that you have available to fix a substitute tang to.